Andes Summits Expedition

This expedition gives an opportunity for people with an alpine climbing background to experience mountaineering in the Greater Ranges at its most enjoyable. Second only to the Himalayas in altitude, the Andes are a vast mountain chain extending the full length of the South American continent.

Our expedition takes place in the most accessible of the spectacular Andean ranges - the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Good infrastructure and our high standard of ground operation makes the Cordillera Blanca an ideal venue for this two-destination mountaineering expedition. In our experience climbing in two different areas can double the excitement, double the enjoyment and give a much broader experience of the country, its people and its mountains than focussing on a single objective.

Starting in the delectable Ishinka valley, we acclimatise and build up to an ascent of a magnificent 6000m summit - Tocllaraju. Once we are well acclimatised we take a brief rest in the mountain resort of Huaraz then travel westwards to climb the friendly summit of Pisco (5750m) before moving up to attempt the biggest and most challenging peak of the trip - the magnificent Chopicalqui (6354m).

We work closely with leading Peruvian guide and ground operator Augusto Ortega, who has vast experience of climbing and guiding in the Andes and has made important ascents all over the world including climbing Everest without oxygen.

Augusto also provides expedition support services to the highest standards. Both base camps will be well-equipped with good quality sleeping tents, cook and mess tents. We use mules to carry the heavy equipment, allowing us to enjoy the approach treks with a light pack and with time to photograph the scenery, which in places is very spectacular.

After a pleasant approach walk we set up our first base camp in the Ishinka valley. The summits of Ishinka (5500m) and Urus (5400m) are fine acclimatising objectives at a reasonable level of technical difficulty and also ideal for freshening up mountaineering skills in preparation for the more demanding climbing ahead. Once acclimatised we are ready to attempt Tocllaraju, which at 6040m is a tougher challenge involving a long glaciated approach to a spectacular summit cone. It has some 200m of steep (55-degree) and exposed ice climbing en route to one of the finest 6000m summits in the Cordillera Blanca.

We then descend for a brief mid-expedition break to rest and freshen up in the mountain resort of Huaraz. For the second part of the trip we travel further north and west to Llanganuco lake then continue up the Ancush Valley between Huascaran and Chopicalqui to arrive at Pisco Base Camp. We allow 2 days to climb Pisco thern transfer to Chopicaqui Base Camp. There are two further camps to make on Chopicalqui before we are in position for our summit push.

The final ridge of Chopicalqui is very long and undulating with some remarkable snow formations. We have to get the snow in good condition so a very early (3am) start is usual. There are steep serac walls to overcome which have to be abseiled on descent, yet the climbing is no more technical than on Tocclaraju. We reach the summit after about 5 hours and after a brief rest to enjoy the breath-taking panoramic view and take photographs we begin the descent to our highest camp. We can stop here but if time and energy allow we continue down to the more comfortable Moraine Camp.

The expedition finishes with an enjoyable trek out from Moraine Camp then a day or so relaxing in Huaraz.

TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS

The technical standard on Tocllaraju is around Alpine AD. Urus and Ishinka are considerably easier at PD. Pisco can vary according to conditions but is normally PD at most. Chopicalqui is AD overall, with less technical climbing than Tocclaraju but a longer expedition at high altitude. As the main peaks involve snow and ice climbing with two ice tools, a good grounding ice-climbing techniques (as used on alpine ice faces in summer) is essential for anyone taking part in the expedition. If you are keen to join the expedition but feel you need to develop your skills/experience further beforehand, we are happy to advise on suitable preparation.

For enquiries/booking/advice please contact Pat Littlejohn via the ISM office or directly by email: patlittlejohn@alpin-ism.com

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