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Our favourite venues for Winter Ice courses

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Below is a selection of the many great ice climbing venues which exist throughout the Swiss Alps. At ISM we pride ourselves in having the flexibility to climb where conditions are most favourable (in order to give you the best possible climbing week). We are always happy to climb in new areas with people who regularly join us for ice climbing and want to visit somewhere fresh.

Alpes Vaudoise

This is the climbing area closest to Leysin and we often begin our courses here. Lauenen is a steep sided limestone valley close to Gstaad, one of many venues nestled in the cold atmospheric valleys of Vaud. It has some magical icefalls and climbing to suit all standards.

With a good strong freeze there are also many lower-lying icefalls of exceptional quality, and as this area is not on the main ice climbing circuit there are still first ascents to be done.

The most famous ice climb of the region is the Cascade D'Ar on Les Diablerets (grade 5). This major classic high in a mountain setting gives 4 pitches of ice climbing on a spectacular icefall which drops through an impenetrable cirque of limestone cliffs.

Arolla

Arolla is a great ice climbing valley being relatively high up at 2000m and consequently offering very reliable conditions. There is a variety of routes here from 30m high, roadside ice walls (which are great training venues for refining technique and warming up) to atmospheric, adventurous ice routes higher up in the mountains, sometimes involving 2hr approaches.

Les Hauderes, lower in the Val d'Herens, also has much to offer including a classic couloir at grade IV and steep, 3 pitch free-standing ice pillar giving an unforgettable ascent.

In the Arolla Valley we often base ourselves at the Pension du Lac Bleu, an ideal place to stay just across the road from some great ice cascades. This hotel is also the starting point for the walk-in (2hrs) to the classic Cascade Ignes a long grade 4 route with huge mountain ambience.

Cogne

Cogne in Italy is the ice climber's Mecca and a world class venue. It is an amazingly extensive area having over 200 routes throughout three valleys; Valielle, Valnontey and Val di Cogne.

Cogne is nestled in the Gran Paradiso region, and comprises Three valleys surrounded by high alpine peaks such as the famous Gran Paradiso (4020m). The glaciers that flow from these peaks flood the valley with cold air. The climbs are all at a relatively high altitude 1500m to 2500m and hence give very reliable ice climbing conditions. In fact this is probably the most reliable ice climbing venue in Europe.

There is a huge range of grades and styles of climbs in Cogne from single pitch roadside 'cragging' to serious multi pitch high mountain routes. It is possible to climb in the sun on long friendly routes or hang out in the shade on steeper more demanding climbs.

The village of Cogne has real character and there are many fantastic hotels in which to base ourselves. On the outside the buildings have maintained their rustic charm but inside they offer unsurpassed comfort. The hotel that we mainly use is Hotel La Barme which is situated at the roadhead of the Valnontey, closest to the climbing. This gives us the advantage that we can walk directly from the hotel to some of the best climbs in this region.

Kandersteg

Kandersteg is another world famous venue. Its high points are climbing steep ice pillars and hanging icicles. It is most famous for it's steep and serious multi pitch dry tooling routes, but there are superb 'classic' ice climbs as well.

Kandersteg has a very wet climate and countless water courses to freeze in winter. In cold conditions (which prevail in January but can also occur at other times through the winter) this is an awesome ice climbing area with some of the most impressive/inspiring icefalls around.

The neighbouring valleys of Adelboden, Lauterbrunnen and Lenk are also major ice climbing venues, making this part of the northern Oberland one of the very best in the Alps.

Zinal

Zinal in the Swiss Valais is a very impressive steep sided valley which boast six 4000m peaks. The village itself is a small ski resort and has a bustling night life with many good hotels to stay in.

This valley has a real high mountain ambience and is home to many remote serious ice falls. It does have much to offer from technical 'dry tooling' routes to classic routes of grade 3 to 6. The routes are mainly 3 or 4 pitches with abseil descents.

Zinal's high altitude and cold glacial air guarantees good ice climbing conditions, although we do have to be careful as the some routes in this valley are avalanche prone in certain conditions.


 
   
 
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