Alpine Rock - Skills & Climbs

Alpine rock climbing takes many forms, from bolt-protected 'crag' climbs to towering ridges and high mountain faces giving routes which are celebrated worldwide. This course has three aims:

• To give you the full range of alpine rock climbing experiences
• To coach and develop your existing climbing skills, which in turn will build the confidence needed to climb safely and efficiently in this challenging environment
• to enjoy some high-quality, classic alpine rock routes

We start the week with a day on the Leysin Tours, a perfect place to practice skills while enjoying superb routes pioneered by the likes of John Harlin, Royal Robbins and Dougal Haston. We then move up to a high mountain area (either in the Swiss Valais or the Chamonix region) where we can attempt some longer alpine routes. Lead climbing skills are covered within the course, on suitable terrain.

Who the course will suit

This course will suit people who rock climb fairly regularly (either indoor or outdoor), who can follow at least grade 5 (Very Severe, American 5.7) in rock shoes and who are confident of their climbing fitness. It essential that you bring comfortable rock shoes suitable for long multi-pitch routes, also lightweight approach shoes in addition to mountain boots. UK-based climbers needing to push up their grade/experience are recommended to climb with us in the UK first (see UK Courses page).

Previous alpine climbing experience is not necessary, but experience of rock climbing in mountain boots, carrying a rucksack, is useful. We climb on a low 2:1 guiding ratio, which gives us flexibility to match your experience, climbing grade and fitness within the group - and to challenge you on routes at the right level of difficulty.

Peaks and routes that can be climbed on this course (example - Swiss Valais)

• Harlin Route, Tour d'Ai F6a. A magnificent line demanding a variety of crack climbing techniques. For those feeling fit and strong there is the option of the Robbins Direct Finish (F6b+).
• Haston Diagonal, Tour de Mayen F5c. A long, superb route taking the easiest line through very impressive surroundings.
• Left-Hand Route, Tour d'Ai. F5c/6a. A great natural line pioneered in the 60's by ISM instructors. It finds the easiest way up the Sphinx, the most striking feature of the Tour d'Ai cliffs.
• Dri Hornli Traverse (IV+) A fantastic climb on some of the best granite in the region, traversing along knife-edge ridges and over several steep gendarmes. An accessible classic which is perfect for teaching alpine rock skills.
• Dri Hornli West Face Interlaced with superb routes, this wall of perfect granite gives fine excellent at all grades from IV+ to VI+. Even more moderate routes such as 'Take It Easy' will definitely put a smile on your face!
• Portjengrat grade IV (3653m). This wonderful, spiky alpine ridge is a regional classic, giving enjoyable climbing on 'friendly' holds with two short harder sections.
• Mittelruck (3363m) is known as Pizzo di Loranco to the Italians and is an impressive rocky peak when viewed from Italy. The East Ridge (grade V) is a superb 'hidden gem' and can now be easily accessed from the Swiss side by a via ferrata, giving a great day out from the Almageller hut.
• Lagginhorn (4010m) South Ridge (III). A high mountain rock route always climbed in mountain boots and giving a fantastic, challenging day out. Above the Lagginjoch the ridge takes on a 'big mountain feel' as it steepens, with some difficult gendarmes to negotiate and testing route-finding along the way.
• Weissmies (4023m) North Ridge (D). A long and challenging rock ridge on a high peak. There are rock with difficulties up to IV+ and a sharp snow crest to finish. Superb.
• Jegihorn (3206m). The 300m east face of this peak gives many excellent climbs on solid gneiss, from grade IV to grade VI.

Typical course programme (in this example we climb in the Swiss Prealpes and the Swiss Valais, however other areas, such as Trient & Saleina, have many routes suitable for this course)

Sunday evening.

The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 7.00pm at Le Grand Chalet hotel in Leysin. This is the chance for the guides to give you a thorough briefing, to discuss the detailed plan for the week with you and to check any equipment needs.

Monday.

We head up to the Leysin Tours, the 500ft-high limestone towers overlooking the village of Leysin. After a warm-up climb to check skills and climbing grades, we will attempt one of the longer routes on the Tours, at the right level of challenge for course participants. In the course of the day we will cover important alpine rock skills such as protected abseiling, prussiking, belaying and setting up belays, plus rope technique for different types of terrain.

Tuesday.

We drive to the Saas Valley and walk up the beautiful Almagellertal (stopping at the Almagelleralp hotel for a coffee!) to reach the Almageller hut, which will be our base for the next few days. Overlooking the hut are the golden walls of the Dri Hornli. They catch the sun and are a perfect venue for a climb before the first-rate evening meal which the Almageller Hut is famous for!

Wednesday.

Our objective today is the Portjengrat, a long undertaking requiring a pre-dawn start. We walk for 2 hours to the frontier ridge between Switzerland and Italy, where the route starts at a prominent notch called 'Port'. The first part of the ridge gives excellent climbing on a beautifully exposed crest, then after a horizontal section the ridge rears up and gives more difficult climbing to the high point - the Pizzo d'Andolla. We descend the far side and then either traverse the Portjenhorn if time allows or descend a huge ramp to reach the path back to the Almageller hut. A superb alpine day.

Thursday.

The East Ridge of the Mittelruck (3363m), offers some of the best quality climbing in the region. Formerly it was always climbed from a bivouac hut on the Italian side but now it is possible to approach from Switzerland on a newly-constructed Via Ferrata, which descends from the Sonnigpass. Once reached, the ridge gives sustained climbing with several challenging pitches.

Friday.

The traverse over the 3 summits of the Dri Hornli (3210m) is a great option for today as it gives course participants a chance to do some lead climbing and is a very enjoyable, satisfying climb (possible in mountain boots or rock shoes). Alternatively, if preferred we can do a more tecnically challenging route on the SE face of the peak - there are many superb options. In the afternoon we walk back down Saas Almagell and drive back to Leysin, where an evening meal at the Grand Chalet is normally followed by an enjoyable evening in the Lynx Bar.

Saturday morning.

Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure.

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