Oberland Summits

The peaks of the Bernese Oberland form the northern rampart of the Swiss Alps. They have a wilder and more remote feel than the Swiss Valais, with more snowfall, bigger glaciers and fewer mountain huts. With the exception of relatively accessible peaks like the Mönch, the high summits of the Oberland are major undertakings and hard-won, making them especially rewarding.

On this course, we attempt some of the finest Oberland summits including three of the most celebrated 4000m peaks - the Mönch (4099m), the Gross Fiescherhorn (4048m) and the Jungfrau (4158m). To acclimatise and give us a reasonable objective to start the week we climb the classic Grunegghorn (3860m), situated in the heart of the range and providing a perfect viewpoint for all the giant Oberland peaks.

This is a strenuous week demanding good fitness and general mountaineering skills. Previous alpine mountaineering experience is essential (such as gained on Summits & Skills 4000m, Classic Alpin-ISM or any of our 'classic' range of courses). Our exact itinerary is finalised after taking into account conditions, weather and any peaks that participants may have climbed previously.

As we go up quickly on this course and stay high, some prior acclimatisation is an advantage. If you can climb with us the previous week that would be ideal, but we are happy to advise on ways for you to acclimatise on your own in safety over the previous few days.

Who the course will suit

Many of the climbs on this course are long so a good level of stamina and aerobic fitness is essential. Participants must have previous alpine experience, preferably to 4000m. Competence with ice-axe and crampons is required, as well as the ability to climb to alpine grade III (American 5.4, UK V Diff) in mountain boots with a medium-sized rucksack. Participants should have completed an ISM Summits and Skills 4000m course or equivalent as a minimum. Routes climbed on this course are PD to AD.

 

Peaks that can be climbed on this course

• Finsteraarhorn (4274m) PD. The Oberland’s highest peak, and one of the most remote, gained by a splendid and exposed mixed ridge climb. Commanding viewpoint for the whole of the Swiss Alps.
• Gross Fiescherhorn (4048m) AD. The traverse of this peak is a classic Oberland expedition. A long approach leads to a steep ice slope and then excellent rock climbing up the SE ridge.
• Hinter Fiescherhorn (4025m) PD+. A worthwhile ascent usually combined with the Gross Fiescherhorn.
• Grünegghorn (3860m) PD. A perfect first summit to acclimatise and get the feel for conditions on the high peaks. Given good weather and a fast ascent it is possible to continue to the summit of the Gross Grünhorn.
• Gross Grünhorn (4044m) PD. An important peak overlooking Konkordiaplatz, the ‘crossroads’ of the greatest glaciers in the Alps. Most easily climbed by traversing another excellent summit - the Grünegghorn - and continuing by the fine SW ridge.
• Trugberg (3932m) PD+. A jagged, pinnacled ridge surrounded by huge glaciers. The west flank offers a choice of ways on snow & ice to some rocky climbing on the summit crest.
• Jungfrau (4158m) PD+. A fantastic and famous summit towering some 3000m above the Lauterbrunnen valley. The ascent from Jungfraujoch involves some quite steep and exposed sections.
• Mönch (4099m) PD. A delightful and popular summit having excellent climbing throughout, partly on snow or ice (depending on conditions) and partly on perfectly sound gneiss. Climbed in 2½ - 3 hours from the Monschjoch hut.

Typical course programme

This is a sample programme as there are many different ways to combine these ascents, largely depending on the condition of the glaciers and weather forecast.

Sunday evening.

The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 7.00pm at Le Grand Chalet hotel in Leysin. This is the chance for the guides to give a thorough briefing and discuss the detailed plan for the week with you - and for you to ask any questions that you may have!

Monday.

After sorting out any equipment requirements, we travel across to Grindlewald by minibus or private car. From Grindlewald we take the famous Jungfraujoch railway - up to Kleine Scheidegg under the North face of the Eiger, then continuing through the heart of the mountain to emerge at the Jungfraujoch. We are now at 3450m on the top of the massive Aletsch glacier – the biggest glacier system in continental Europe. We descend the massive snowfield of the Jungfraufirn then cross another glacier which comes in from the east (the Grüneggfirn) to reach the Konkordia hut at 2850m.

Tuesday.

Today we climb the Grünegghorn (3860m), an ideal summit to acclimatise and refresh alpine skills. We start by climbing the Grüneggfirn for 300m then we follow snow slopes northwards to gain the South West Ridge of the Grünegghorn at Pt 3475m. Steep snow slopes lead to a fore-summit at 3787m then a rocky ridge is climbed to the main summit of the Grunegghorn. On the summit we enjoy an exceptional 360-degree panorama of the great Oberland peaks before returning to the Konkordia hut.

Wednesday.

Another early start is needed to re-ascend the Jungfraufirn to reach the Mönchsjoch hut at the base of the Mönch. We can take a sort break here before climbing the classic route on the Mönch, a very pleasant mixed ascent involving easy rock climbing on perfect gneiss to an exposed snow crest. We descend by the same route to the large and comfortable Mönchsjoch hut.

Thursday.

Our next objective is the Gross Fiescherhorn, the splendid snowy pyramid which dominates the view from the Mönchsjoch hut. We approach before dawn across the Ewigscheefäld to gain the North West Ridge, which gives a steepening ascent on snow and ice to the 4048m main summit, an exposed spot with a vast wall (the 1100m Fiescherwand) dropping sheer on the north side. We would normally descend by the same route and try to regain the Ewigscheefäld and cross it befofe it becomes too soft in the afternoon. Overnight at the Mönchsjoch hut.

Friday.

For our final ascent we aim for the Jungfrau (4158m), the famous peak which dominates the northern Oberland and towers above the Lauterbrunnen valley. After some technical climbing near the start the route follows a broad ridge until a steep ice pitch gains a saddle. From here an exposed traverse gains the summit crest, a fine mixed ridge. After the ascent we carefully reverse the route then re-ascend the glacier to the Jungfraujoch railway, which takes us back to Grindelwald and our transport back to Leysin.

Saturday morning.

Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure.

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