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This course page should be read in conjunction with an explanation of ISM's Mont Blanc Policy. As the highest summit in the Alps, Mont Blanc (4807m) is a worthy goal for mountaineers of all levels. On this course we aim to achieve one of the classic routes of the peak, having first acclimatised on another high alpine peak and practised all the skills required for a safe and enjoyable ascent of Mont Blanc itself.
On Mont Blanc the route we choose could be the traverse from the Cosmiques hut, the Gouter Ridge, or the classic route from Italy via the Gonella hut. We will take the most suitable route according to conditions, the weather and the needs of the group. At the start of the week we head up to the mountain hut beneath our acclimatisation peak. A perfect objective is the Gran Paradiso (4061m), an important summit in its own right being the highest entirely within Italy. If any course participants have already climbed Gran Paradiso then either Mt Velan (3731m) or Mt Blanc de Cheilon (3869m) are excellent alternatives. We then go on to attempt Mont Blanc by one of its classic routes. Options include the ‘three Mont Blancs’ traverse over Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, the normal route from Italy or the very popular Goûter Ridge from France. We will choose the safest and surest route according to conditions on the mountain and the weather forecast. A guiding ratio of 2:1 throughout the week gives us the flexibility to adapt the course to individual needs and to give specific training as appropriate.
By climbing with the same guide all week, having a choice of routes on Mont Blanc and the flexibility to choose our summit day according to the weather, we give you the best possible chance of success on Mont Blanc, and a great week of alpine climbing in the process. Who the course will suit This course is aimed at participants with previous mountain experience and general mountaineering skills, such as scrambling on rocky terrain in ascent and descent. Prior experience of ropework and ice axe & crampons is beneficial, however this is also covered within the course. You need to have a high level of general fitness, such as that gained from regular climbing, regular hill walking with a rucksack or strenuous aerobic exercise focused on legs and lungs. Do prepare yourself well with regular aerobic exercise and please don’t underestimate the effort involved; climbing any 4000m peak is physically demanding and Mt Blanc is closer to 5000m! Brief outline of a typical course programme - in this example we climb from the Cosmiques hut and day 5 (Wednesday) is the best weather day. Day 1. Meeting with the guides and
course briefing at the Grand Chalet hotel, Leysin, 7.00pm. Typical Course Programme This is very much a sample program of this course as several different acclimatisation peaks and climbs are possible. We will also adapt the program to make use of the best weather for our ascent of Mt Blanc.
Saturday evening. The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 7.00pm at Le Grand Chalet hotel in Leysin. This is the chance for the guides to give you a thorough briefing of the details of the course, sort out any particular personal equipment requirements and for you to ask any questions that you may have! Sunday. After breakfast, we start by checking equipment and issuing any items needed by course participants. We travel by minibus across the picturesque Grand St. Bernard col into Italy, then up the more remote Val Savarenche to our starting point for the ascent of the Gran Paradiso. We generally have a picnic lunch here and then climb up steeply on the well-made walking track to the comfortable and very friendly Chabod hut, set beneath the spectacular north face of the Gran Paradiso. The ascent to the hut takes around 3 hours and involves a height gain of about 1000m. Once we are settled in we will have a training session on the use of the technical climbing equipment (crampons, harness, etc) and look at basic climbing knots and rope work. The Chabod hut is very well regarded by the guides, and Titania, the hut guardian, invariably prepares a hearty Italian meal of minestrone, pasta, meat and veg – just what is needed for the day ahead! Monday. We leave the hut before dawn to start our ascent of Gran Paradiso. The route starts as a good track, which quickly becomes less distinct as we cross the moraine slopes onto the glacier. It will be light by the time we reach the glacier, and we stop here for a brief training session with crampons and ice axe before roping up to continue our climb. The ice slopes on this ascent are not unduly steep, but are quite continuous. We do take regular rest stops as we go! There is also quite a crevassed section as we get higher and the guides will be paying particular attention here to ensure that the whole team is using the proper technique with the rope. Finally, we cross the bergschrund to climb a short steeper slope onto the summit ridge. The ridge is quite short and is an easy scramble over rocks, but is exposed! In no time, we reach the Madonna on the summit and can take in the fantastic panorama of mountains all around us – not least an excellent view of Mt Blanc to our north. We descend via the same route and return to the warm welcome and hearty cooking of the Chabod hut. Tuesday. After breakfast at 7am we descend to the valley in just over an hour, a very pleasant time to be walking down. It is cool in the morning and this is the time when we are likely to see some of the fauna the Paradiso range is famous for, especially chamois and ibex. We drive along the Val d'Aosta to the Mont Blanc Tunnel and cross through into France, then have an hour or so in Chamonix for lunch before taking the Aiguille du Midi cablecar to 3800m. We descend an exposed ridge to the glacier and traverse around to the Cosmiques hut beneath Mt Blanc du Tacul, from which we will make our ascent of Mt Blanc. Wednesday. Depending on the weather forecast, we may choose today for our summit attempt! If so, the day normally starts very early – taking breakfast at either at 1am or 3am. The initial slopes of Mt Blanc du Tacul are mostly a straightforward slog although there is often a difficult section crossing one or more of the séracs/crevasses on the way. We contour around the actual summit of the Tacul and then go up more steeply again to the shoulder of Mt Maudit. The last section up to the shoulder involves crossing a bergschrund and a steeper icy pitch that generally gives the crux of the climb. From here, we traverse around below the summit of Mt Maudit to the Col de La Brenva, from where a long and tiring, but technically easy ascent takes us to the summit. We descend the way we came, to the Cosmiques hut, although we also have the option of descending by the Goûter ridge if bad weather threatens or the team is too fatigued.
Thursday. There are many superb mountain days to be had from the Cosmiques hut, one of the best being the Midi-Plan Traverse, which can be climbed in its entirety or in the case of poor weather as far as the Rognon du Plan. If the best weather is forecast for Thursday this will be our day to attempt Mont Blanc summit, and on Wednesday we will climb another route. Friday. If there is still energy and enthusiasm, we can take in the classic Cosmiques Arête (AD, mixed) on our way back up to the Aiguille du Midi. This is a relatively short climb but continually interesting, and people finishing the climb enjoy brief celebrity status as they step over the rail of the Aiguille du Midi restaurant terrace! We take the cable car back down to our transport in Chamonix then we return to Leysin in the afternoon and a very well deserved celebration and night in the Yeti bar! Saturday morning. Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure. |
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