Andes Summits Expedition - Itinerary and Details
EXPEDITION ITINERARY
The expedition runs over 3 weeks but people may of course spend more
time in Peru before or after the expedition, in which case Augusto will be happy to help with any arrangements.
DAY 1 (Sunday May 27) Convene in the evening at HOTEL LA CASTELLANA ***, situated in the best area of Lima (Grimaldo del Solar 222, Miraflores - Lima. http://www.hotel-lacastellana.com/ )
DAY 2 Lima - Huaraz.
Bus for the long ride to the northern highland town of Huaraz. The drive takes about eight hours, and we stop at midday for a lunch break. We arrive in Huaraz (at an altitude of 10,200 ft) in the late afternoon and check into our hotel. Dinner in town, overnight in hotel.
DAY 3 A day around Huaraz to acclimatize to the altitude. After breakfast we hike up to Rataquenua, the viewpoint of Huaraz and Cordillera Blanca. Afternoon to rest, or rock climb, and walk around town. Welcome Dinner.
DAY 4 Huaraz - Collon - Ishinca Base Camp.
Morning departure by private bus to Collon, roadhead of the Ishinca valley. Hike up to base camp (our luggage will be transported by donkeys).
DAY 5 Acclimatizing day.
Explore area with acclimatizing hike in the lower hills above Base Camp.
DAY 6 Climb ISHINCA (5500m).
Begin our ascent early in the morning of Ishinca (18,200ft altitude). This is one of the most beautiful mountains in the area. We normally reach the summit around noon and then return by the same route to Base camp.
DAY 7 Tocllaraju High Camp.
A 5-hour hike gets us to the high camp below Tocllaraju at 17,000ft. Our porters will establish the camp.
DAY 8 Climb TOCLLARAJU (6040m).
The normal route (Northwest Ridge) presents a few very steep sections with numerous crevasses and seracs, a fun ice wall with a fixed rope, often deep snow in places. Eventually we reach the fine summit pyramid which is guarded by a beautiful ridge. Descend to high camp or go back to base camp.
DAY 9 A well-earned rest day or in case we need time to return from the high camp.
DAY 10 Walk out and drive to Huaraz.
Early in the morning we hike down to Collon and meet our van at the trailhead. Return to Huaraz, hotel night & dinner in town.
DAY 11 Llanganuco Valley and Pisco BC.
To begin our Pisco climb, today we drive to Llanganuco lake at the trailhead, and continue with a hike up to Base Camp. Magnificent views of Huandoy, Chacraraju and Huascaran.
DAY 12 BC to High Camp. We use porters to establish a high camp (15,186-16,400'). We have to cross a boulder field to reach the camp at 5000m.
DAY 13 Climb PISCO.
Today we climb Nevado Pisco (18.870ft, 5750m). Surrounding peaks include Piramide, Santa Cruz, Huandoy, Chopicalqui, and Huascaran. Return to base camp if there is time, or stay at the high camp.
DAY 14 Extra day in case of bad weather or use it to return to base camp from high camp on the mountain.
DAY 15 Move from Pisco To Chopicalqui Base camp.
After breakfast we make the descent to Demanda Camp in the Llanganuco valley. From here hike up to Chopicalqui Base Camp at 14,100 feet
DAY 16 Chopicalqui - Camp 1.
We continue to Moraine camp (Camp 1), located at the edge of the glacier at 16,100 feet (4900m). High altitude porters help us with this climb.
DAY 17 Climb to Camp 2
We gain the glacier a short way above camp and climb to about 19000 feet to site our High Camp just below a high col between Chopicalqui and Huascaran.
DAY 18 Summit day CHOPICALQUI (6354m).
On the summit day we climb steeply above the col and follow the long summit ridge to the top. The climbing involves occasional belayed climbing on ice and snow up to 60 degrees. Every year this route is a bit different. Occasionally some very steep climbing is required just below the summit. After our climb we descend either back to Camp 2 (an 8 to 10-hour round trip) or perhaps down to Camp 1.
DAY 19 Extra day in case of bad weather or if needed for the descent from Camp 2.
DAY 20 Back to base camp and Huaraz.
We continue our descent, meeting our van at the trailhead and return to Huaraz. Night on the town!
DAY 21 (Saturday June 16) Huaraz - Lima.
Morning bus ride to Lima, with a lunch box for the journey. Late afternoon arrival at Lima's airport in time to connect with international flight back home.
MEDICAL AND RESCUE
For these mountains we should have no altitude problems, provided we
acclimatise sensibly, and the team is reasonably fit. The first
base camp is at around 4300m, set on grass well below the level
of glaciation, and
easy to return to from higher camps.
ISM will provide the expedition medical kit. Individual members are asked
to bring a small personal first aid kit for minor problems like headache,
cuts, blisters etc.
INSURANCE
All expedition members must have mountaineering insurance to cover medical
and rescue expenses. For UK residents, suitable cover can be arranged
through the following organisations/companies:
Snowcard Tel: 01327 262805 Web: www.snowcard.co.uk
BMC Tel: 0161 445 4747 Web: www.thebmc.co.uk
Austrian Alpine Club Tel: 01707 324835 Web: www.aacuk.demon.co.uk (more limited cover especially re medical expenses)
Non-UK residents can get medical and rescue cover by joining the Austrian
Alpine Club. If taking the latter it may be necessary to take out further
travel insurance
to cover aspects such as cancellation.
TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS
Mountaineering in the Andes requires all the skills involved in climbing
in the Alps - safe glacier travel, ropework for moving together
and pitched climbing, good technique with ice axe and crampons.
Participants must have alpine experience (preferably at least to the level of ISM's 'Classic' courses) The technical standard of Chopicalqui and Tocllaraju is
around Alpine AD. The
main peaks involve technical
ice climbing with two ice tools so a grounding in
ice climbing skills is essential for anyone taking part in
the expedition. If you are keen to go but feel you need to develop
your skills/experience
further in the meantime, we can advise on suitable preparation.
FITNESS
A high level of fitness is essential for anyone taking part in the expedition.
The summit climbs of Tocllaraju and Chopicalqui in particular
are long, demanding days at altitude. Regular aerobic excercise
combined with full days on the hill with a rucksack (c.12kg)
would give suitable preparation particularly during the 3 months
preceding the trip.
EQUIPMENT
ISM provides all climbing hardware, ropes, cooking equipment and tents.
Individual members must bring:
- Sleeping bag (expedition or ‘5 season’ quality)
- Closed-cell
foam sleeping mat and/or Thermarest
- Rigid mountaineering boots
(plastic double boots strongly recommended)
- Rock climbing shoes
(comfortable and large enough to take a thickish sock)
- Thermal
underwear, fleece shirt or similar, fleece jacket & pants
- Extra fleece
top or light duvet, Goretex jacket and salopettes (or pants)
- Mountain
mitts/gloves, hat or balaclava, gaiters
- Ice axe, ice hammer,
crampons (with anti-ball plate)
- Helmet, harness,
3 locking carabiners, belay plate or fig. 8
- Long sling (240cm
approx), 3 prussik loops, headtorch with spare batteries,
- Climbing
rucksack (55-70 litre), second sac or kitbag,
- Glacier glasses,
sun protection cream and lip salve, water bottle,
- Mug, bowl,
spoon, shorts, sunhat, lightweight 'trekking' boots, trekking poles
- Personal ‘travellers’ first-aid
kit (headaches, diahorrea, minor cuts, blisters etc).
COSTS
The expedition price covers all in-country expenses apart from drinks
and meals taken in restaurants. The flight to Lima is excluded
from the price so that expedition members may choose their departure
airport and arrive earlier or stay longer if they wish. The supplement
for taking a single room for all hotel nights is £110.
Payment schedule. A place on the expedition is secured with a deposit
of £600. The balance is due EIGHT WEEKS before departure. In case of cancellation, these payments are non-refundable so please ensure that you arrange your cancellation insurance immediately once the first payment has been made.
BOOKING
To apply for a place on the ANDES SUMMITS expedition, please complete
the Expedition Booking Form and send it together with a sterling cheque
(or bank draft) for £600 payable to 'ISM Expedition'. We will confirm
your place as soon as possible.
Click here for expedition Booking
Form (print and post)
We look forward to welcoming you to another ISM adventure!
