Andes Summits Expedition

This expedition gives an opportunity for people with an alpine climbing background to experience mountaineering in the Greater Ranges at its most enjoyable. Second only to the Himalayas in altitude, the Andes are a vast mountain chain extending the full length of the South American continent.

Our expedition takes place in the most accessible of the spectacular Andean ranges - the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Good infrastructure and our high standard of ground operation makes the Cordillera Blanca an ideal venue for this two-destination mountaineering expedition. In our experience climbing in two different areas can double the excitement, double the enjoyment and give a much broader experience of the country, its people and its mountains than focussing on a single objective.

Starting in the delectable Ishinka valley, we acclimatise and build up to an ascent of a magnificent 6000m summit - Tocllaraju. Once we are well acclimatised we take a brief rest in the mountain resort of Huaraz then travel to Vicos to attempt the higher peak of Copa (6188m). Copa is a very distinctive mountain clearly visible from Huaraz. Its name comes from a resemblance to the type of hat worn by the villagers of Callejon de Huaylas. Though technically easier than Tocllaraju, Copa is a demanding 6000m peak which involves careful route finding through spectacular snow and ice terrain.

We work closely with leading Peruvian guide and ground operator Augusto Ortega, who has vast experience of climbing and guiding in the Andes and has made important ascents all over the world including climbing Everest without oxygen.

Augusto also provides expedition support services to the highest standards. Both base camps will be well-equipped with good quality sleeping tents, cook and mess tents. We use mules to carry the heavy equipment, allowing us to enjoy the approach treks with a light pack and with time to photograph the scenery, which in places is very spectacular.

After a pleasant approach walk we set up our first base camp in the Ishinka valley. The summits of Ishinka (5500m) and Urus (5400m) are fine acclimatising objectives at a reasonable level of technical difficulty and also ideal for freshening up mountaineering skills in preparation for the more demanding climbing ahead. Once acclimatised we are ready to attempt Tocllaraju, which at 6040m is a tougher challenge involving a long glaciated approach to a spectacular summit cone. It has some 200m of steep (55-degree) and exposed ice climbing en route to one of the finest 6000m summits in the Cordillera Blanca.

We then descend for a brief mid-expedition break to rest and freshen up in the mountain resort of Huaraz. For the second part of the trip we travel further west to the town of Vicos which lies at an altitude of 3300m. From here it is a strenuous trek up to Copa base camp at 4600m. At 6188m, Copa is one of the most sought-after peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. Clearly visible from Huaraz, it takes its name from its distinctive shape which resembles the style of hat worn by the villagers of the Callejon de Huaylas.

Though the climbing on Copa is less difficult technically than on Tocllaraju, it is a serious climb requiring careful route-finding through the complex snow and ice terrain of its western flank. There are spectacular crevasses to negotiate and seracs to weave around. The terrain changes each year and may sometimes require sections of ice climbing. Good weather and visibility are required for the summit day, so we keep a day in hand to give us the best chance of success on this magnificent peak. The route of ascent skirts the awesomely steep South Face (a very impressive wall which has so far seen only a handful of ascents) and leads to some fabulous climbing on the summit ridge.

The breath-taking panoramic view from the summit of Copa is a perfect climax to the trip, taking in many of the great Andes summits including Huascaran (6768m), the highest peak in the range.

TECHNICAL REQUIREMENTS

The technical standard on Tocllaraju is around Alpine AD. Urus and Ishinka are considerably easier at PD. Copa can vary from PD to AD depending on conditions. As the main peaks involve snow and ice climbing with two ice tools, a good grounding ice-climbing techniques (as used on alpine ice faces in summer) is essential for anyone taking part in the expedition. If you are keen to join the expedition but feel you need to develop your skills/experience further beforehand, we are happy to advise on suitable preparation.

For enquiries/booking/advice please contact Pat Littlejohn via the ISM office or directly by email: patlittlejohn@alpin-ism.com

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