Classic Alpine Icefalls
In ice climbing perhaps more than in any other aspect of
mountaineering, gaining the right technical skills at an
early stage enables you to progress confidently through the
grades and ultimately to achieve climbs at your full potential.
This ice climbing course offers a thorough grounding in skills
blended into 6 days of high-quality
icefall climbing on routes of Grade III and IV
standard, building up to attempt grade V by the end of the
week. It is designed for people learning to climb with two
technical ice-tools
and
for
people with
previous
ice climbing experience
who
want to improve their technique
to be able to tackle more ambitious ice climbs with confidence
(either as leader or second).
We operate in some of Switzerland's finest icefall-climbing
areas, doing classic climbs throughout the week. By the end
of the course we aim to have you following competently on
ice routes up to grade V standard. There will
be opportunities to learn lead-climbing skills for
those whose goal is to gain the
full range
of techniques to be able to climb independently
with the best possible safety margin.
Sample Programme
Day 1. Climbing
on the Lauenen Icefall near Leysin, which offers routes up
to 3 pitches
long in beautiful quiet surroundings. Here we focus on climbing
skills, teaching the most effective use of ice tools and
crampons on various angles of ice and analysing your technique,
thereby giving the right foundation for more challenging
climbs later in the week.
Days 2 - 6. Climbing in two of Switzerland's
premier icefall climbing areas, typically Arolla in the Swiss
Valais and Kandersteg in the Bernese Oberland.
Our choice
of venues will take into account prevailing conditions,
the weather forecast and the needs of the group,
ensuring that we make the most of your time and attempt
the most suitable climbs. If the weather is better in the
south
we go through the St Bernard tunnel to the ice-climbing
mecca of Cogne.
Technical Skills covered: During the climbing
programme we teach such technical aspects as rapid ice screw
placement
and removal,
racking equipment
for steep ice, double rope technique, setting up stances
and belays, retreating safely from an ice climb, assessing
ice conditions, mixed-climbing techniques and adapting technique
for higher-grade climbing. At the guide's discretion we teach
lead climbing on suitable terrain.
Note: This course can be used to prepare
for our more advanced Technical Alpine Icefalls week, and
the two courses may be taken consecutively
for a superb two-week holiday in a variety of world-class
ice-climbing venues throughout the western Alps.
Experience and Fitness. Technical roped
climbing experience is important as well as some previous
experience
with ice axe and crampons. Indoor
ice climbing facilities
such as Vertical Chill (at Ellis Brigham's London Covent
Garden store) or the Toyota Wall at Castleford in Yorkshire,
can offer very effective preparation for the course.
General fitness and upper body excercise such as indoor
or outdoor rock climbing will be found beneficial.
Our favourite venues for
Winter Ice courses
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