Our favourite venues for Winter Ice courses

Below is a selection
of the many great ice climbing venues which exist throughout
the Swiss Alps. At ISM we pride ourselves in having the
flexibility to climb where conditions are
most favourable (in order to give you the best possible
climbing week). We are always happy to climb
in new areas with people
who
regularly
join us for ice climbing
and
want
to
visit somewhere
fresh.
Alpes Vaudoise
This is the climbing area closest
to Leysin and we often begin our courses here. Lauenen is
a steep sided limestone valley
close to Gstaad, one of many venues nestled in the cold atmospheric
valleys of Vaud. It has some magical icefalls and climbing
to suit all standards.
With a good strong freeze there are
also many lower-lying icefalls of exceptional quality, and
as this area is not on the main
ice climbing circuit there are still first ascents to be
done.
The most famous ice climb of the region is the Cascade
D'Ar on Les Diablerets (grade 5). This major classic
high in a
mountain setting gives 4 pitches of ice climbing on a spectacular
icefall
which drops through an impenetrable cirque of limestone
cliffs.
Arolla
Arolla is a great ice climbing valley
being relatively high up at 2000m and consequently offering
very reliable
conditions.
There is a variety of routes here from 30m
high, roadside ice walls (which are great training venues for refining
technique and warming up) to atmospheric, adventurous ice
routes higher up in the mountains,
sometimes involving 2hr approaches.
Les Hauderes, lower in the Val d'Herens,
also has much to offer including a classic couloir at grade
IV and steep, 3 pitch free-standing ice pillar
giving
an unforgettable
ascent.
In the Arolla Valley we often base ourselves at the Pension
du Lac Bleu, an ideal place to stay just across the road from
some great ice cascades.
This
hotel is
also the starting point for the walk-in (2hrs) to the classic Cascade
Ignes a long grade 4 route with huge mountain ambience.
Cogne
Cogne in Italy is the ice climber's Mecca and a world
class venue. It is an amazingly extensive area having over
200
routes throughout
three
valleys;
Valielle,
Valnontey
and Val di Cogne.
Cogne is nestled in the Gran Paradiso region,
and comprises Three valleys surrounded by high alpine peaks
such as the famous Gran
Paradiso (4020m).
The glaciers
that flow from these peaks flood the valley with cold air. The
climbs are all at a
relatively high altitude 1500m to 2500m and hence give very reliable
ice climbing conditions. In fact this is probably the most reliable
ice climbing
venue in
Europe.
There is a huge range of grades and styles of climbs in
Cogne from single pitch roadside 'cragging' to serious multi
pitch
high mountain
routes.
It is possible
to climb in the sun on long friendly routes or hang out in
the shade on steeper more demanding climbs.
The village of Cogne
has real character and there are many fantastic hotels in
which to base ourselves. On the outside
the buildings
have maintained
their rustic
charm but inside they offer unsurpassed comfort. The hotel
that we mainly use is Hotel La Barme which
is situated at the roadhead
of
the Valnontey,
closest
to the climbing. This gives us the advantage that we can
walk directly from the hotel to some of the best climbs in
this
region.
Kandersteg
Kandersteg is another world famous
venue. Its high points are climbing steep ice pillars and hanging
icicles. It
is most
famous for it's
steep and serious
multi pitch dry tooling routes, but there are superb 'classic'
ice climbs as well.
Kandersteg has a very wet climate and countless water courses
to freeze in winter. In cold conditions (which prevail in January
but can also occur at other times through the winter) this
is an awesome ice climbing area with some of the most impressive/inspiring
icefalls around.
The neighbouring valleys of Adelboden, Lauterbrunnen and Lenk are
also major ice climbing venues, making this part of the northern
Oberland one of the very best in the Alps.
Zinal
Zinal in the Swiss Valais is a very
impressive steep sided valley which boast six 4000m peaks.
The village itself
is a small ski resort and has a bustling night life with
many
good hotels to stay in.
This valley has a real high mountain ambience and is home
to many remote serious ice falls. It does have much to offer
from technical 'dry tooling' routes to classic routes of grade
3 to 6. The routes are mainly 3 or 4 pitches with abseil descents.
Zinal's high altitude and cold glacial air guarantees good
ice climbing conditions, although we do have to be careful
as the some routes in this valley are avalanche prone in certain
conditions.
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