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This is a ski-mountaineering traverse of the biggest glaciers in Europe, weaving through some of the most remote 4000m peaks in the Alps. Traversing the area on ski is the most practical way, cutting by half the time it takes to do it on foot in summer. The expedition loosely connects the West Oberland Haute Route and the Haute Route du Soleil, its highlights being five fine summits including a 4000'er and skiing through possibly the most breath-taking high mountain scenery in Europe.
The remote summits ascended on the trip are climbed mainly on ski but often involve some general mountaineering with ice axe and crampons (as well as roped scrambling) to reach their highest points. The expedition is perfect for the fit, all-round mountaineer with ski-touring experience. Itinerary Day 1 Early start to travel to Grindelwald by taxi. Grindelwald, the home of the Eiger with it’s notorious north face, is the start of our tour. We use the famous Jungfraujoch mountain railway, which tunnels its way through the Eiger, to reach the Jungfraujoch (“Top of Europe”). We now ski down the Jungfraufirn to make an ascent of the Louwihorn (3773m, 500m ascent), with its impressive views of the Oberland. A 900m vertical descent down the Kranzbergfirn leads us to Konkordiaplatz, where a 200mascent using ladders takes us to the Konkordia hut (2850m). These ladders have had to be built due to the glacier receding and blocking access to the hut. The Konkordia hut is a very comfortable modern hut and has a bar on the terrace. Avalanche rescue protocol and transceiver practice session. Day 2 We continue our journey eastwards over the Grunhornlucke (3280m, 2hrs) and then we ski to the Fieschergletscher (2900m). An ascent of the Wyssnollen (3590m, 600m up, 2hrs), gives us magnificent views of the surrounding 4000m peaks and a lovely ski down to the Finsteraarhorn hut (3048m, 5hrs hut to hut). The Finsteraarhorn hut has been recently rebuilt and is now a state of the art Swiss hut with single beds and inside toilets.
Day 3 A big strenuous day (1100m of ascent) which starts with an ascent to the Gross Wannenhorn, (3905m, 4 hrs). This is the most southerly of the peaks we climb and it has great views of the Rhone valley and the peaks of the Swiss Valais. The Gross Wannenhorn is also a great glaciated ski peak and normally gives a good powder descent. We climb back over Grunhornlucke to the Konkordia hut (1hr). Day 4 A traverse of the Trugberg (3880m, 4hrs). This peak is an island surrounded by glaciers. When it was first climbed it was mistaken for the Jungfrau, and the name Trugberg means false peak. The ascent is via the Ewigschneefald ice fall to the east of the peak. The south facing descent down to Konkordiaplatz can give fantastic spring snow. Return to the Konkordia hut. Day 5 The traverse the Kranzberg (3666m, 4hrs). This peak overlooks the Konkordiaplatz and is an excellent peak to take in on the way to the Hollandia hut. The summit is reached on foot up a nicely exposed ridge. Our descent to the Grosser Aletschfirn is very spectacular and leads on to the Hollandia hut (3240m, 5hrs). This hut is situated on the ridge just above the Lotschenlucke (3173m) and has striking views both to the east and west. The impressive north face of the Aletschhorn (4193m) dominates our ascent to the hut.
Day 6 This day is a magnificent finale to the trip. We climb the Abeni Flue (3962m, 4hrs). Although not technical or steep it does give wonderful glacier skiing and, from the summit, brilliant views to the north over its hugely exposed north face, while to the south is spread the whole of the Swiss Valais. Descending back to the Hollandia hut and the Lotschenlucke gives access to the classic alpine ski run into the Lotschental. The Lotschental was one of the last Swiss alpine valleys to be explored and it certainly gives you a feeling of stepping back in time, with it’s museum of traditional Swiss chalets on stilts, and folklore. Taxi or train takes us back to Leysin. Maps: Jungfrau 264s 1:50 000, Nufenenpass 265s 1:50 000 Ski ability required: This is a very demanding tour at high altitude. Prior ski-touring experience is essential and you should have effective turns off-piste in a variety of snow conditions. A high level of fitness is very important and you should be able to comfortably sustain a climb at a rate of 300 vertical metres an hour. A typical day will involve up to 6 hours of uphill skiing (up to 1400m of ascent). |
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