Oberland Ski-Mountaineering Traverse

This is a ski-mountaineering traverse of the biggest glaciers in Europe, weaving through some of the most remote 4000m peaks in the Alps. Traversing the area on ski is the most practical way, cutting by half the time it takes to do it on foot in summer. The expedition loosely connects the West Oberland Haute Route and the Haute Route du Soleil, its highlights being five fine summits including a 4000'er and skiing through possibly the most breath-taking high mountain scenery in Europe.

The remote summits ascended on the trip are climbed mainly on ski but often involve some general mountaineering with ice axe and crampons (as well as roped scrambling) to reach their highest points. The expedition is perfect for the fit, all-round mountaineer with ski-touring experience.

The course convenes at the Mountain Hostel in Grindelwald (Grund) on the Sunday evening. This gives us chance to get the first train to the Jungfraujoch which arrives at 8.50am.

Typical Itinerary

day 1 (Sunday evening) Course convenes at the Mountain Hostel with welcome by ISM guides at 6.45pm and course briefing followed by evening meal.

day 2 Grindelwald, home of the Eiger with its notorious north face, is the start of our tour. We use the famous Jungfraujoch mountain railway, which tunnels its way through the Eiger, to reach the Jungfraujoch ('Top of Europe'). We now ski down the Jungfraufirn to make an ascent of the Louwihorn (3773m, 500m of ascent) to enjoy impressive views across the Oberland. A 900m vertical descent down the Kranzbergfirn leads us to Konkordiaplatz, where a series of ladders takes us up to the Konkordia hut (2850m), now perched high above the glacier due to glacial recession. The Konkordia hut is a very comfortable modern hut and has a bar on the terrace. After refreshment we have an avalanche rescue protocol and transceiver practice session.

day 3 We continue our journey eastwards over the Grunhornlucke (3280m, 2hrs) and then we ski to the Fieschergletscher (2900m). An ascent of the Wyssnollen (3590m, 600m up, 2hrs), gives us magnificent views of the surrounding 4000m peaks and a lovely ski down to the Finsteraarhorn hut (3048m), 5hrs hut to hut. The Finsteraarhorn hut has been recently rebuilt and is a state-of-the-art Swiss hut boasting single beds and inside toilets.

day 4 A big strenuous day (1100m of ascent) which starts with an ascent to the Gross Wannenhorn, (3905m, 5 hrs). This is the most southerly of the peaks we climb and it has great views over the Rhone valley and the Valais Alps. The top section demands care as there is only a narrow (but sufficiently wide) corridor to ski. It is also a great glaciated ski peak and normally gives a good powder descent. We climb back over Grunhornlucke to the Konkordia hut (1hr).

day 5 The traverse the Kranzberg (3666m, 4hrs). This peak overlooks the Konkordiaplatz and is an excellent peak to take in on the way to the Hollandia hut. The summit is reached on foot up a nicely exposed ridge. Our descent to the Grosser Aletschfirn is very spectacular and this then leads the way to the Hollandia hut (3240m, 5hrs) hut. This hut is situated on the ridge just above the Lotschenlucke (3173m) and has striking views both to the east and west. The impressive north face of the Aletschhorn (4193m) dominates our ascent to the hut.

day 6 This day is a magnificent finale to the trip as we climb the Abeni Flue (3962m, 3hrs). Although not technical or steep it does give some great glacier skiing, and from the summit we enjoy spectacular views over its hugely exposed north face to the northern plains more than 3000m below. Descending back to the Hollandia hut and the Lotschenlucke is another classic alpine ski descent into the Lotschental. The Lotschental was one of the last Swiss alpine valleys to be explored and it certainly gives you a feeling of stepping back in time, with its folklore and museum of traditional Swiss chalets on stilts. Taxi or train back to Leysin.

day 7 (Saturday) Breakfast at the Leysin hotel is included before departure.

Maps: Jungfrau 264s 1:50 000, Nufenenpass 265s 1:50 000

Ski ability required: This is a very demanding tour at high altitude. Prior ski-touring experience is essential and you should have effective turns off-piste in a variety of snow conditions. A high level of fitness is very important and you should be able to comfortably sustain a climb at a rate of 300 vertical metres an hour. A typical day will involve up to 6 hours of uphill skiing (up to 1400m of ascent).

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