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This week of technical mountaineering is not tied to any particular area or peaks. The course has a simple aim - to give participants a great week of challenging alpine climbing on the finest routes of at least two different alpine valleys of the Swiss Valais, Bernese Oberland or Mt Blanc Massif.
Designed for people with previous alpine experience, the specific climbs and peaks that we attempt are decided upon after considering the alpine routes you have already done. This way we ensure that you will be in new and inspiring areas on routes which provide the right level of challenge. We may climb a 4000m peak on this course; however the emphasis will be on climbing the finest routes in our chosen area at the right level of difficulty for course participants. We climb on a low 2:1 guiding ratio, which gives us flexibility to match levels of experience and fitness within the group - and to tackle some challenging climbs. Routes attempted on this course can range from PD to D and can include climbs that vary from short and technical, to those that are long and committing undertakings at altitude. We will explain the options at the course briefing and give you the chance to input into the final plan. Please be very sure to detail on the booking form your previous experience and especially all alpine peaks climbed, so that we can plan the most suitable itinerary.
Who the course will suit Previous alpine climbing experience is necessary (to the level of our Technical Alpinism course or equivalent). Participants should ideally be climbing to grade V (British Very Severe, American 5.7) and have experience of climbing with boots and rucksack (although we may carry rock boots for some climbs). Experience climbing with two ice tools on moderate routes (Scottish grade II and III) is also necessary. Good fitness and stamina is essential. Peaks and routes that can be climbed on this course We would typically choose to run this course outside of the areas where we tend to run our other Technical Ascents courses (i.e. Zermatt, Central Switzerland and Southern Oberland). We are happy to change climbing areas to achieve the best possible week’s climbing. The list of routes we could choose from is almost endless. Here are a few possibilities: Valais Alps
Bernese Oberland
Chamonix / Mont Blanc Massif
Typical course programme This is very much a sample programme of this course as any number of different combinations of peaks and climbs are possible. Saturday evening. The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 7.00pm at Le Grand Chalet hotel in Leysin. This is the chance for the guides to give you a thorough briefing and discuss the detailed plan for the week with you. Sunday. The plan for the week might start in the Arolla region with the ‘Arête de Tsalion’ as our first climb. This is an excellent route up a long and steep ridge on the Dent de Tsalion, next to the spectacular tower of the Aiguille de la Tsa (which we can climb as well if we are in good time). We sort gear and then drive around to Arolla and walk up to the privately owned Tsa hut. Monday. This is a big day so we make a good ‘alpine start’ in the morning. Starting over awkward moraine, we soon reach the bottom of the arête, which is followed all the way to the summit - mostly pitched climbing with some strenuous sections up to grade V. From the top, a short traverse across a snow slope takes us to the bottom of the prominent tower of the Aiguille de la Tsa, which can be climbed in another four pitches or so, if there is time (and energy!). We descend to the glacier and traverse around to the Bertol hut. Tuesday. There are several options for today depending on the conditions. The Dents de Bertol (3547m) is the closest and is a snow ascent to a mixed ridge. If there are good ice conditions the Tête de Chavannes (3671m) gives a great steep ice route. We descend via the Col de Bertol and back to Arolla. Overnight hotel. Wednesday. A superb expedition for the second part of the week is traverse of the Grand Cornier (3733m). The South Ridge of this peak is a fantastic route in a wild and remote setting, climbed from the Dent Blanch bivouac hut. This is situated in an incredible position on the col underneath the north ridge of the Dent Blanche. We sort the bivvy food and gear, drive around to Ferpècle, and make the 5-6 hour ascent to the bivvy hut. Thursday.
The climb starts straight from the hut and is mostly rock, so we don’t need to make a pre-dawn start! The difficulties are mostly on rock (pitches to IV) and the ridge itself is a very exposed and narrow crest. From the summit we descend the tricky rock crest of the North West Ridge, then over mixed ground onto the upper Moiry glacier, which gives a long but easy descent to the Moiry hut. Friday. Our return to Ferpècle involves crossing the Moiry glacier again below the hut and then climbing easily up to the Col de la Couronne. From the col we can take in an ascent of the south ridge of the Couronne de Bréona (3159m). This excellent rock peak is seen prominently from the hut and gives a fine little route to round off he week. We descend to Ferpècle and return to Leysin and the Grand Chalet hotel in the afternoon. Saturday morning. Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure (or this is a rest day if you are continuing to another course). |
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