Dolomites Ice
Level 2 : Guided Climbing
The jagged limestone peaks of the Dolomites stand like huge cathedrals spanning the provinces of Trentino and Alto AdigeIn in North Eastern Italy. Clean ribbons of ice form in deep ravines, canyons and down steep cliffs, forming fortifications to these huge limestone castles.
In ice climbing perhaps more than in any other aspect of mountaineering, gaining good technique enables you to progress confidently through the grades and ultimately achieve climbs at your full potential.
Course Highlights
Climb some of the classisc icefalls in and around the Dolomites
Develop your skills and experience icefall climbing
Enjoy a progression of both skills learned and grade of icefalls climbed
Expert guiding and instruction from experienced ISM Guides
Is The Course For Me?
This week of icefall climbing offers you the opportunity to gain and refresh all the important ice climbing skills which are needed to enjoy a week of top quality icefall climbing at the 'classic' grade WI4
We begin the week by refreshing your icefall climbing skills and developing techniques, knowledge and roped skills on routes graded 3/3+. We then aim, as the week progresses, to build on your experience and skills to climb 'Classic' grade 4/4+ ice and experience some of the gems of the region.
We operate on a low 2:1 ratio and are based in one of finest icefall climbing areas of the Dolomites Region, climbing classic icefalls throughout the week.
For people whose ultimate aim is to lead climb on ice, we are happy to incorporate a session on lead climbing skills, which will enable you to climb independently with the best possible safety margin. Or, alternatively, you can just enjoy a week of guided climbing on great ice!
Skills Covered
During the course we will teach technical aspects of ice climbing e.g. rapid ice screw placement/removal, racking equipment for steep ice, double rope technique, setting up stances and belays, retreating safely from an ice climb, assessing ice conditions, mixed-climbing techniques and adapting technique for higher-grade climbing. At the guide's discretion we will also teach lead climbing on suitable terrain.
Course Content
- Refreshing your icefall climbing skills and experience
- Developing your personal climbing technique
- Understanding icefall conditions, temperature effects and the weather
- Snow pack and risk assessment
- Climbing some 'classic' alpine icefalls
- Placing ice screws and other specific equipment
- Ice belays and anchors
- Ropework for belaying and lead climbing
- V-Thread anchors and abseilling
- Grades and understanding icefall guidebooks
Note: This course is the perfect preparation for any of our technical icefall climbing weeks, and two courses may be taken consecutively for a superb two-week holiday in a variety of world-class ice-climbing venues throughout the Alps.
Sample Programme
Sunday
The course convenes in Verona at 6.45pm with a welcome and course briefing from your Guide, followed by an evening meal. We are happy to be very flexible to ensure that we climb where conditions are best and attempt the routes most suitable for course participants.
Monday
We climb on the outstanding Canyon of Bletterbach near Trento. A perfect place to warm up. You will have the opportunity to do several icefalls graded 3 - 5, top roping, leading and enjoying some dry tooling and mixed climbing. This canyon is geologically outstanding due to the red magmatic rock which gives fabulous contrasts with the blue ice. Here we focus on climbing skills, teaching and refreshing the most effective use of ice tools and crampons on various angles of ice. We will analyse your technique, thereby giving you the right foundation for the more challenging climbs later in the week. After the day climbing we will move to Fassa’s valley, one of the most beautiful corners of the Dolomites.
Tuesday
We will attempt to climb the multipitch icefall “Bus de Tone”, 250m grade 4, in Fontanazzo (Trento). This icefall has beautiful views of the Catinaccio, the Sella and Sassolungo range. Every pitch offers different angles of ice, so we can change the grade to suit you.
Wednesday
We move to the Badia Valley, the German speaking part of the Dolomites, where we will climb one of the amazing ice falls in the Sella range: Lujanta, Pissadù and Spada di Damocle (120m grade 3 to 4+).
Thursday/Friday
We’ll spend two days in the ice climbing mecca of the Sottoguda Canyon. This is the most famous ice climbing venue in the eastern alps and can be compared to Cogne but in a smaller area where you can choose between 20 icefalls of all length and all grades.
Saturday
Breakfast is included at the hotel before departure.
Course Dates & Booking
Meet the Team
Christian Edelstam
IFMGA Swedish Mountain Guide
Christian likes exploring the mountains in any mountain range and particularly loves the solitude and wilderness of northern Scandinavia.
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Matt Stygall
IFMGA British Mountain Guide
Originally from the flatland of Norfolk, Matt soon escaped to the highlands of Scotland, to cut his teeth on the Scottish winter climbing scene there. He then worked full time at Plas Y Brenin in North Wales…
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Terry Ralphs
ISM Director and IFMGA British Mountain Guide
Terry learnt to climb on the gritstone edges of the Peak District then after graduating from Leeds University he decided to make his living in the outdoors, moving to North Wales to work at Plas y Brenin…
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Steve Jones
IFMGA British Mountain Guide
Perhaps the most experienced British guide working in the Alps, Steve has lived in Switzerland for more than 30yrs. He is a member of the Swiss Guides association as well as the British Mountain Guides.
Read MoreVital Information
Please check the vital information below to help when booking a course
- Equipment
- Fully Inclusive Prices
- Getting to Leysin
- Insurance Information
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