Monte Rosa 4000ers
Level 2 : Guided Climbing
This hut to hut high mountain traverse, climbing many of the 4000m peaks that make up the Monte Rosa chain above Zermatt, is one of THE great expeditions in the Alps.
Our Monte Rosa 4000ers week links together the ultimate traverse of both 4000m summits and high mountain huts offering an amazing week based entirely in the highest mountains of the Alps culmitanting in a stay at the highest hut - the Margherita Hut at 4559m.
Hut to Hut high mountain traverse
Summiting many of the 4000m peaks in the Monte Rosa massif
Expert instruction and guiding from experienced ISM Guides
All-inclusive price includes all uplift, food, transport and accommodation
Who Is This Course For?
This high mountain journey is a fantastic 'next step' for those who have completed out Summits and Skills 4000m course or similar, having learned the basic skills of summer alpine mountaineering and wishing to develop and practise these skills, or those who are experienced and who wish to enjoy a week of great mountaineering, whilst staying in high mountain huts, and climbing 4000m peaks.
A high mountain hut to hut Traverse
There are few high mountain traverses like this one in the Alps. Centred in the Monte Rosa Massif, staying each night in a high mountain hut and then climbing one or more of the snowy 4000m peaks that make up this chain of high summits. The massif sits high above Zermatt with incredible views across to the Matterhorn, the Dent Blanche and Mischabel range in stark contrast to the flat plains of Italy to the south.
The week is aimed at at climbing many of the 4000ers in the Monte Rosa chain of high summits
- Castor (4228m)
- Balmenhorn (4194m)
- Schwarzhorn (4321m)
- Pyramide Vincent (4215m)
- Ludwigshöhe (4321m)
- Parrot Spitz (4432m)
- Signalkuppe (4554m)
- Zumsteinspitz (4563m)
- Naso del Liskam (4274m
Please note that we do not attempt the Dufourspitze on this traverse.
The course starts with a briefing at 6.45pm at the Tour D'Ai hotel in Leysin. This is a chance for you to meet your team mates and Guide and go through the details of the course. There will also be time for you to sort out any equipment you need and for you to ask questions. Dinner will follow the briefing.
Monday - Leysin to Refugio Quintino Sella
After breakfast we drive into Italy and head to the Gressoney area in the Aosta Region on the south side of Monte Rosa. From Gressoney, and then the small hamlet of Staffal, we take the chair lift up to the Colle Bettaforca and walk into the Refugio Quintino Sella (3585m).
Tuesday - Castor (4220m)
After an early start we head up the glacier to climb the Castor. This is a full day of alpine mountaineering, taking in this beautiful summit via glacier, snow slopes and snow ridges. The summit offers stunning views down to Zermatt and 360 degree views of all the surrounding 4000m summits including the Matterhorn, Dom and Dufourspitze. The route on this high mountain summit is very much weather and conditions dependant and feels very adventurous even on good weather days. With our experience and local knowledge we will do our best to climb what we can and also deliver skills as appropriate if time permits.
Wednesday - Refugio Quintino Sella to Gnifetti Hut
Another early start sees us cramponing back up onto the 'Ghiacciaio del Lis' and making a fairly long traverse underneath Lyskamm (4272m) to a steep and exposed section of the traverse, known as the ‘Passo del Naso’. Once across this, we can take in the summit of Naso. The going then becomes easier until we ascend again on straightforward snow slopes to climb the Balmenhorn (4194m). Now we make the short but steep snow/ice ascent to the summit of the Schwarzhorn (4321m) and also bag the Pyramide Vincent (4215m) before descending the glacier to the Gnifetti hut.
Thursday - Gnifetti Hut to Margherita Hut
After breakfast, we go back up onto the main ridge keeping below the Pyramide Vincent and traverse over the snow summit of Ludwigshöhe (4341m). A short descent leads to a col and a pronounced snowy ridge that continues to the Parrot Spitz (4432m). We traverse over this and make a short descent to another col. A steeper snow/ice ridge leads up to the Signalkuppe (4554m) and the Margherita Hut. The Margherita Hut, located on the summit of Punta Gnifetti is the highest guarded hut in the Alps. It is a stunning place to be, in terms of altitude, views and the feeling of remoteness right up there!
Friday - Margherita Hut to Leysin
Our last day sees us take in our final 4000m peak before we descend back into the Aosta valley. The Zumsteinspitz (4563m) is close to the Margherita Hut and makes a fantastic finish to this great high mountain adventure. From the summit we descend the glaciers and hiking trails back to a lift at Punta Irdren, which will take us back down to our vehicle at Staffal. Here we have a late lunch and then travel back to the Tour D'AI hotel in Leysin where, after a much-needed shower, you will have a well-deserved dinner and perhaps a drink!
Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure.
Course Dates & Booking
Meet the Team
IFMGA Italian Mountain Guide
Born in NW Italy in a region surrounded by mountains, Paolo started to ski and trek as a kid, always wanting to explore 'beyond the next hill'.Read More
IFMGA Swedish Mountain Guide
Christian likes exploring the mountains in any mountain range and particularly loves the solitude and wilderness of northern Scandinavia.Read More
IFMGA Italian Mountain Guide
Tommaso is a an experienced Italian mountain guide and regular year-round ISM team member. He loves the mountains and helping people to connect and find happiness in nature.Read More
Please check the vital information below to help when booking a course
- Fully Inclusive Prices
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Testimonials For ISM
“What an incredible week learning the basics of Mountaineering. The course is perfectly balanced between summiting high alpine peaks and learning rope, climbing and glacier skills.
Our three guides were all excellent: Thomas, Phil and Paulo. I can't speak highly enough of them. They were all good company and superb climbers, and patient with us all.
Brilliant!! I was a walker at the start of the week. By the end had been on glaciers and climbed a 4000m peak!! It was a wonderful, wonderful, experience which i will never forget. It was excellent value for money and I hope to be joining you for years to come.
Summits & Skills 4000m (Instructional Course)