More technical than the Matterhorn even with sections of fixed rope, it was the last of the great Oberland ridges to be climbed (1921).
All routes on the Eiger are demanding and serious. The most popular is a traverse of the peak via the Mittellegi Ridge, descending by the South Ridge to Jungfraujoch. This is normally the route we follow, but if conditions favour the South Ridge we are happy to change plans.
With stronger rock climbers who take a 6-day block of 1:1 guiding for the Eiger, we are prepared to climb the peak via the Mittellegi Integrale. The 'Integrale' is one of the longest and finest expeditions of its standard in the Alps, involving around 8000ft of ascent from the tiny hamlet of Alpiglen to the summit over 3 days. We can attempt this with people who are confident following Hard Very Severe (American 5.8, alpine grade V+) on rock. The most technical sections of this are climbed in rock shoes.
By climbing on a 1:1 ratio, and keeping the programme flexible to take account of the weather, conditions, and the individual training/preparation needed, we will give you the best possible chance of success on the Eiger and a great climbing week in the process.
In addition to the Eiger traverse, the 5-day course will include a training climb and at least one other technical route / peak in the area.
When to attempt the climb
The traditional 'high season' for the Eiger is mid-July till the end of August. Recent hot summers have greatly extended this and at the same time made weather patterns generally less predictable.
We can arrange an Eiger Ascent course any week from the beginning of July till mid September.