Classic 4000ers
Level 2 : Guided Climbing
A week of 'classic' alpine mountaineering climbing some of the highest and most beautiful snow capped 4000m peaks in the Swiss Alps.
Our 'Classic 4000ers' is an enjoyable week of alpine mountaineering, where you'll get the chance to attempt a number of 4000m peaks.
The 4000 metre peaks of the Alps, stretch from the Mt Blanc Massif, to the Gran Paradiso, down to the Monte Rosa and then over to Zermatt, Saas Fee and on towards the Bernese Oberland giving this week plenty of options.
We take into consideration the weather and conditions at the time and plan the week around participants previous experience and 4000m summits already climbed, so that we visit maybe an area or climb a 4000m peak they've not climbed before.
You will be climbing 4000m peaks, requiring only a moderate level of ability and experience and would be a perfect next step for someone that's maybe just completed our 'Summits & Skills 4000m' introductory course or having already done an introduction to alpine mountaineering.
Course Highlihghts
A fun guided week, climbing the classic 4000m peaks
Low ratio adapting to the changing weather & conditions
Plenty of options as to which 4000m summits you climb
Expert guiding and instruction from experienced ISM Guides
Price includes breakfasts and evening meals, vehicle transport and accommodation (excludes mechanical uplift*)
Is This Course For Me?
This course is a perfect progression from our Summits and Skills 4000m - Level 1 instructional course and gives you the opportunity to build your experience and practise many of the skills you will have learned during that course, whilst climbing a number of 'classic' 4000m peaks. It is also a perfect course for you is you wish to enjoy some fantastic summer alpine mountaineering at a 'classic' grade and to summit some 4000ers that you haven't climbed previously.
We keep the itinerary flexible to give us lots of options when planning what 4000m peaks to climb, when all the factors are taken into consideration, such as your experience and what peaks you've already climbed, balanced with the mountain conditions on any given week.
Higher ratio weeks can be more restrictive and will only focus on a few easy 4000ers, and possibly repeat peaks that you've already summited.
Climbing the 4000m Peaks
There are 82 alpine summits above 4000m, and over half of those are in Switzerland. These summits can be a great incentive and motivation for many mountaineers climbing in the Alps each summer.
ISM has split these summits into two categories - 'Classic 4000ers' (grade PD/PD+) and 'Technical 4000ers' (grade AD/AD+)
The 'Classic 4000ers' is based on a 3:1 ratio and on the more 'Technical 4000ers' the ratio is based on a smaller 2:1 client to guide ratio.
Area's we visit
- Monte Rosa
- Mischabel Range
- Bernese Oberland
- Gran Paradiso
- Mt Blanc Massif
*Please note that this course normally runs without taking mechanical uplift and is priced accordingly. If uplift is taken (with agreement of course participants) it is charged as an extra.
Sample Programme
There are many combinations when planning a week around the classic 4000m peaks and we do our best to deliver the week at the right level of abilitiy for the course participants, taking into account the weather and conditions.
Sunday
The course starts with a briefing at 6.45pm at our hotel in Leysin. It's at this time you'll meet your ISM Guide, other course participants and then talk through the recent mountain conditions, weather for the coming days and together make a plan as to what area and 4000m peaks you'll attempt. There will also be time for you to ask any questions you may have about what to pack for the week ahead, equipment you might need to borrow, hut nights and any dietary requirements you may have. Dinner will follow the briefing.
Monday
After breakfast you'll leave Leysin and head up the Rhone valley towards Tasch, a small village below Zermatt. From here we'll will drive up the steep winding road to Tasch Alp from where you'll hike up to the Tasch Hut to stay the night.
Tuesday
A pre-dawn start sees the team walking by headlamp up good trails towards the glacier Alphubel. Once on the glacier we continue up and over the Alphubeljoch and onto the Fee Gletscher. We then head north up the steepening glacier, over the 'Ice Naso' and on to the summit of Alphubel at 4206m. The descent is back down the broad glacier to the Alphubeljoch and then we continue down to the Tasch hut and back to the valley. We'll then drive a short distance to Saas Grund where we'll stay the night.
Wednesday
After a more relaxed start, we walk up to the Almageller Hut above Saas Amagell, which gives us access to the Weissmies (4017m) via the stunning south ridge, which we hope to climb the following day. That night we will stay in the Almageller hut (2726m).
Thursday
An early start sees us leaving the Almageller Hut with headlamps on and heading up towards the South Ridge of the Weissmies. The ridge is a fantastic rock scramble which ends at a the start of a beautiful snow ridge and arete, which leads to a snow summit. From the summit which has great views across to the Mischabel and beyond to Zermatt, the Monte Rosa, the Mt Blanc Massif and to the north the Bernese Oberland, we then turn around and descend back down the south ridge and back to the Almageller hut where we'll stay a second night.
Friday
A more relaxed start, with just a short walk from the Almageller Hut, we walk up to the Almageller Hut above is the Dri Hornli, which is a
fantastic alpine rock ridge, which we may climb that morning before heading down to Saas Almagell. The Dri Hornli is one of the best alpine rock climbs in the area, with some amazing scrambling and climbing on immaculate granite-like rock. You follow the spine of this amazing rock summit, taking in three rocky 'horns' and traversing along knife edge ridges accessible in only 10mins from the Almageller Hut!
fun!
After climbing the Dri Hornli, we have a quick stop at the Almageller Hut, before heading back down the valley and driving back to Leysin where we have a final debrief and dinner back at our hotel.
Saturday
Morning - Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure.
Course Dates & Booking
Meet the Team
Carlo Cosi
IFMGA Italian Mountain Guide
Carlo Cosi was born in Padua, northern Italy, and has been a Guide since he was 23. He is a National Climbing Instructor and has a degree in Physical Education.
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Steve Monks
IFMGA British Mountain Guide
A well known international climber, Steve has climbed and explored all over the world.
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Vital Information
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