Kook Kiik Valley, Western Zaalay, Pamir Mountains
26 August 2019
Pk 4655m (39°23.872N, 72°23.031E, August 26). We ascended easily up its eastern flank from our ABC, across scree, rock and snowfields. Several metres of climbing (5.4) was required to ascend the rock gendarme which formed the distinctive summit (PD).
Team - AN, MC, TD, AP, JS, ST, PC, MB, MA, JM, MG, SB, DW, HW.
Pk 4250m (39.406, 72.395, August 26). Approached by scrambling down the initially north and then east ridge of Pik 4655m. Mainly easy rocky scrambling on a broad ridge with several sections of scree (PD).Team - AN, JS, ST
28 August 2019
Pk 3884m (39°40.082N, 72°14.405E, August 28). From BC1 we went up the main valley for 3 km then went west to ascend a minor subsidiary valley. This reached a pass from which the north ridge was climbed (5.4) to reach the main summit. Other easier variations were also taken largely avoiding the rocks. Team - AN, MC, TD, AP, JS, ST, PC, MB, MA, JM, MG, SB, DW, HW.
Pk 3993m (39°23.958N, 72°27.506E, August 28). This was approached from Pik 3884m by descending to the glacier and taking a circular route to avoid crevasses and moulin holes. We visited a beautiful ice grotto seen at 39°23.656N, 72°27.504E. After crossing the glacier it was an easy walk up vegetated slopes to the summit (F).Team - MC, MA, ST, JS
Alay Mountains, Turkistan Range
31 August 2019
Pk 4205m (39.6332N, 72.2641E, August 31). The broad north ridge of Pik 4240m West was followed which gradually descended until a short easy scramble was required to ascend the summit (F). Team - TD, MC, PC, MB, HW, DW.
Pk 4240m East. (39°39.28.89N, 72°16.4.05E, August 31). This was easily reached by walking east along the broad scree ridge of Pik 4240m West (F). Team - TD, MB, PC.
Pk 4240m West. (39°39.26.48N, 72°15.43.29E, August 31). Same initial approach as Pik 4485m to the pass. The route then went east from there following mainly scree on the easy and gradual broad west ridge to the summit (F). Team - TD, MB, PC, MC, DW, HW
Pk 4491m, Surveyor’s Peak. (39°39.5642N, 72°14.1294E, August 31). Pik 4485m was descended by the rocky east.ridge for about 300m until it was possible to get onto the steep scree slopes. These were descended until a basin between both peaks was reached. The steep northerly slopes were then ascended to the summit (F). The peak was also ascended from its southwest flank (AD). This route required much more scrambling and rock climbing including nine pitches at 5.5. Team - AN, JS, ST, MA, AP, JM, SB, MG
Pik 4502m, Panorama Big Peak. (39°39.6269N, 72°13.9892E, August 31). The north east ridge was followed from Pik 4491m. This ridge was steep and exposed but only moderate scrambling was required (PD). Team - AN, JS, ST, MA
Pik 4485m, Hidden Big Peak. (39°40.90839N, 72°14.04073E, August 31). From BC2 we ascended north on a recently bulldozed road to reach a high level pass at 4000m, approximately between Pk 4491m and Pik 4240m West. From there we continued north to reach the start of the long and rocky east ridge. This provided entertaining scrambling and climbing (5.4) with many towers and pinnacles all the way to the summit (PD+).
Team - AN, JS, ST, MA – Hidden Big Peak
1 September 2019
Pk 4141m, Rocky Spine Peak (39°36.9688N, 72°13.2215E, September 1). This summit is at the western end of a 5km immensely rocky, steep and serrated ridge. This is the highest summit on the entire ridge. From BC2 we walked 3km west and gradually ascended easy grass slopes. We reached the start of a distinctive rock ridge at the western end and climbed up this (5.4). There was several pinnacles and towers, some of which we by-passed. After reaching the main summit ridge we continued in a western direction, scrambling over several false summits until reaching the highest point (PD). On the return we followed the main ridge for about 3 km and completed several enjoyable rock climbs (5.4) to summit minor tops. Team - AN, JS, ST, MA
Pk 3999m, (39.6137N, 72.2498E, September 1). This summit is at the eastern end of the 5km long ridge. It is the second highest summit on the 5 km ridge and 3 km east of the highest point (Pik 4141m) with many subsidiary tops, towers, pinnacles and drops between both summits. From BC2 the summit was approached from the south and a route was established through a considerable amount of steep rocky terrain. Four pitches of rock climbing (5.9) were required. Two of these pitches were on very good rock, although the quality of the rock was less attractive on the other two pitches. Several false summits were climbed before the highest summit was reached and confirmed (AD+). Another party attempted the east ridge of this peak which gave 9 pitches of mainly slab climbing (5.8). The party reached 3880m. This mountain has considerable rock climbing potential on solid rock at 5.8 or higher. Team - TD, MB
Basecamp in the Altyn Dara valley on way to Ters Agar Pass, nearest village was Darot Korgon, Trans-Alay Range, Pamirs – 3177m
Basecamp 1, (3178m) at 39°24.978N, 72°26.152E in the Kook Kiik Valley, nearest village was Achik Suu, Trans-Alay Range, Pamirs – 3175m
Advanced BC (4,056m) at 39°24.204N, 72°23.958Ehigh up the Kook Kiik Valley, Trans-Alay Range, Pamirs
Basecamp 2, at (3,143m) at 39°37.755N, 72°15.628E. in Turkistan Range in Alay Range, nearest village was Kyzyl Eshme, Pamirs