Swedish Ice
Level 2 : Guided Climbing
Looking for a more exotic venue? Then combine icefall climbing with the magic of the northern lights.
Get away from the crowds and explore the wilderness and arctic mountains, experiencing a winter you'll never forget.
Abisko our base, is a tiny village located 250km north of the polar circle which has very reliable ice climbing conditions from November through until the end of March . At this latitude, and being the driest place in Sweden, Abisko is also one of the best places in the world to watch the magic that is the Aurora Borealis.
Course Highlights
Experience the incredible Northern Lights
Climb some of the classic icefalls in and around Northern Sweden
Enjoy a progression of learning skills and grade of icefalls climbed
Expert guiding and instruction from experienced ISM Guides
Is The Course For Me?
This week of icefall climbing offers you the opportunity to gain and refresh all the important ice climbing skills necessary to enjoy a week of top quality icefall climbing at the 'classic' grade WI4
We begin the week by refreshing your icefall climbing skills and developing techniques, knowledge and roped skills on routes graded 3/3+. We then aim, as the week progresses, to build on your experience and skills to climb 'Classic' grade 4/4+ ice and experience some of the gems of the region.
We
operate on a low 2:1 client to guide climbing ratio and are based in
one of finest icefall climbing areas in the Abisko National Park, climbing
classic icefalls throughout the week.
If your ultimate aim is to lead climb on ice, we are happy to incorporate a session on lead climbing skills which will enable you to climb independently with the best possible safety margin. Or, alternatively, you can just enjoy a week of guided climbing on great ice!
Abisko National Park
Just out of town, extending from the south western shore of Lake Torneträsk, is the Abisko National Park. It's here amongst the mountains, and great winter wilderness that the icefalls form. The climbing has an adventurous feel with most of the icefalls being above the tree line with fantastic arctic views where you´re more likely to meet reindeer or moose than other climbers. But you´re also exposed to the elements so a few shorter road side venues make for an exciting week of classic icefall climbing.
All the icefalls are a short drive and within around an hour's walk, to where you can then access these wild places and climb some classic Swedish ice. If conditions are very good it's well worth the extra 30min drive west to Spansdalen in Norway, to climb the longer and classic 7 and 8 pitch routes that form there. The approaches are usually on foot, but after heavy snowfall we may use snow shoes to get to these venues.
If you do want to stay longer, then why not also enjoy a night in the ice hotel, or go dog sledding or ice fishing!
Course Content
- Refreshing your icefall climbing skills and experience
- Developing your personal climbing technique
- Understanding better icefall conditions, temperature effects and the weather
- Snow pack and risk assessment
- Climbing some 'classic' alpine icefalls
- Placing ice screws and other specific equipment
- Ice belays and anchors
- Ropework for belaying and lead climbing
- V-Thread anchors and abseilling
- Grades and understanding icefall guide books
Note: This course is the perfect preparation for any of our technical icefall climbing weeks.
Sample Programme
Wednesday
The course meets at 7pm at the Abisko Mountain Lodge for a briefing with your guide and dinner.
Thursday
Warm up in Abisko Canyon (photo above) or Kurvan. Short climbs, 10-20m, WI 3-5, all with very easy access.
Friday
Lillpakte (photo above). A 20 minute drive and 40 minute approach brings us to this 50m 2 pitch icefall. A few different lines can be climbed, WI 4-5.
Saturday
The big blue. Similar to Lillpakte but we drive in the opposite direction for a change of magnificent views.
Sunday
If conditions allow we go to Norway to Spansdalen to climb Henrikefossen, 7-8 pitches WI 4+. A 90 minute drive and 40 minute approach guarantees a long but hopefully great day.
Monday
Another mini expedition, Kaisepakte. A 25 minute drive and 75-90 minute approach to these imposing 80m high water falls. WI4+-5.
Tuesday
This is usually spent back in Abisko Canyon or Kurvan.
Wednesday
The course will depart after breakfast.
Along with the day time adventures on the ice we wish to optimize the chances to see the Aurora Borealis. Your Guide will keep updated with the northern lights forecast and meet up with you on a few evenings to go looking for the old spirits of the Same (indigenous people of Lapland) people within the magic lights.
Course Dates & Booking
Meet the Team
Anders Swensson
IFMGA Swedish Mountain Guide
Anders was the first Swedish Mountain Guide to work in the Alps. Before that he lived up in Northern Scandinavia, 400 km above the Arctic Circle.
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Matt Stygall
IFMGA British Mountain Guide
Originally from the flatland of Norfolk, Matt soon escaped to the highlands of Scotland, to cut his teeth on the Scottish winter climbing scene there. He then worked full time at Plas Y Brenin in North Wales…
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Steve Monks
ISM DIrector and IFMGA British Mountain Guide
A well known international climber, Steve has climbed and explored all over the world.
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Paolo Intropido
IFMGA Italian Mountain Guide
Born in NW Italy in a region surrounded by mountains, Paolo started to ski and trek as a kid, always wanting to explore 'beyond the next hill'.
Read MoreVital Information
Please check the vital information below to help when booking a course
- Equipment
- Fully Inclusive Prices
- Getting to Leysin
- Insurance Information
- Paying Information
- Booking Conditions
