Ism Aurora2

Classic Swedish Ice

Looking for a more exotic venue? Then combine icefall climbing with the magic of the northern lights.

Level 2 Guiding & Coaching

6 days, 7 nights

Ratio: 2:1

Prerequisites: Ice Climbing Skills Or equivalent

Price From: £2145*

* Fully inclusive price

 Course Dates
Ism Is 2

Get away from the crowds and explore the wilderness and arctic mountains, experiencing a winter you'll never forget.

Abisko our base, is a tiny village located 250km north of the polar circle which has very reliable ice climbing conditions from November through until the end of March . At this latitude, and being the driest place in Sweden, Abisko is also one of the best places in the world to watch the magic that is the Aurora Borealis.

Ism Aurora1

Just out of town, extending from the southwestern shore of Lake Torneträsk, is the Abisko National Park. It's here amongst the mountains and great winter wilderness that the icefalls form. The climbing has an adventurous feel to it with most of the ice falls being above the tree line with fantastic arctic views where you´re more likely to meet reindeer or moose than other climbers. But you´re also exposed to the elements so a few shorter road side venues make for an exciting week of classic icefall climbing.

Ism Is 1

All the icefalls are a short drive and within around an hour's walk, to where you can then access these wild places and climb some classic Swedish ice away from anyone. If conditions are very good it's well worth the extra 30min drive west to Spansdalen in Norway, to climb the longer and classic 7 and 8 pitch routes that form there. The approaches are usually on foot, but after heavy snowfall we may use snow shoes to get to these venues.

If you do want to stay longer, then why not also enjoy a night in the ice hotel, or go dog sledding or ice fishing!

Is this Course for Me?

The course is designed primarily for people with some ice climbing experience who want to improve technique and climbing grade, in order to be able to tackle more ambitious ice climbs with confidence (either as leader or second).

Technical roped climbing experience is important as well as some previous experience with ice axe and crampons. General fitness and upper body excercise such as indoor or outdoor rock climbing will be found beneficial.

Sample Programme

Wednesday - The course meets around 7pm at the Abisko Mountain Lodge for a briefing with your guide and dinner.

Day 1 (Thursday): Warm up in Abisko Canyon (photo above) or Kurvan. Short climbs, 10-20m, WI 3-5, but very easy access.

Day 2 (Friday): Lillpakte (photo above). A 20 min drive and 40 min approach brings us to this 50m 2 pitch ice. A few different lines can be climbed, WI 4-5.

Day 3 (Saturday): The big blue. Similar to Lillpakte but we drive in the opposite direction for a change of magnificent views.

Day 4 (Sunday): If conditions allow we go to Norway, Spansdalen to climb Henrikefossen, 7-8 pitches WI 4+. A 90 min drive and 40 min approach guarantees a long but hopefully great day.

Day 5 (Monday): Another mini expedition, Kaisepakte. A 25 min drive and 75-90 min approach to these imposing 80m high water falls. WI4+-5.

Day 6 (Tuesday): Back to Abisko Canyon or Kurvan if we are not up for another hike.

Wednesday - The course will depart after breakfast on Wednesday morning.

Along with the day time adventures on the ice we wish to optimize the chances to see the Aurora Borealis. Your Guide will keep updated with the northern lights forcast and meet up with you on a few evenings to go looking for the old spirits of the Same (indigenous people of Lapland) people within the magic lights.

Course Dates

Week Start Finish Price  
4 18 Jan 2020 25 Jan 2020 £2145 Full
7 8 Feb 2020 15 Feb 2020 £2145 Full