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Virgin Peaks Expedition Information

GROUND ARRANGEMENTS

As in previous years these will be co-ordinated by ITMC Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan’s leading expedition company. The director, Vladimir Komissarov, was one of the leading mountaineers of the former Soviet Union and is now President of the Association of Mountain Guides of Kyrgyzstan. Vladimir, his camp staff, and porters (some of whom are strong mountaineers in their own right) will be working with us throughout the expedition. Through them we can share some of the 'Russian traditions' which have given Central Asia a unique mountaineering history. Nowhere else is base-camp life so enjoyable!

FLIGHTS

Turkish Airlines operate regular flights to Bishkek from London, Manchester and Birmingham. People travelling from outside the UK can pick up the connecting flight to Bishkek from Istanbul.

EXPEDITION ITINERARY

The expedition will convene at the Hotel Alpinist in Bishkek on Sunday 19th August at 6pm. It runs over 19 days and finishes on Thursday September 6th. All accommodation is covered from the night of August 19th till the morning of September 6th.

Day

Activity

Overnight

1

(Aug 19) Meet 6pm at the Hotel Alpinist in Bishkek. A Briefing, then restaurant meal in the evening.

hotel

2

Final equipment check, then travel to Naryn, where we will pick up any final fresh provisions and then continue on to Tash Rabat. We'll stay overnight in a yurt camp and enjoy local Kyrgyz cuisine in Tash Rabat.

Yurt

3

We'll explore the surrounding rocky peaks, ridges and crags in Tash Rabat, making first ascents of climbs in the valley which will also start acclimatisation. We will spend a second night at the yurt camp in Tash Rabat.

Yurt

4

Continue driving west towards the Torugart Pass and around the western end of the At-Bashi Range. We then start our 6WD off-road journey into the area we recci'd in 2017 and Base Camp at around 3500m.


camp

5-15

Mountaineering in the At-Bashi range. Typically we head off to explore the surrounding glaciers and peaks which both continues with valuable acclimatisation but also gives us the information we need to plan the first half of the trip, eyeing up virgin peaks and routes to attempt, from a possible high Advanced Base Camp (ABC). We then set up an ABC in our chosen location high up in a valley or on a glacier. From this high point we'll spend the next few nights attempting the surrounding Virgin Summits and routes. We then normally break ABC, returning to Base Camp (BC) for a much needed wash and rest. We then repeat this process, initially exploring another valley and glacier before setting up another ABC and again climbing more peaks. BC can also be a great source of unclimbed peaks and it may be, that we have a couple of days just exploring unclimbed peaks from here. Base Camp generally stays as a constant, but our ABC's will move around giving the team the best chances of any Virgin Summit success. We keep radio or Sat phone contact with BC to ensure that supplies are kept flowing up to ABC as required.

Camp

16-17
Travel to the limestone canyons of Son Kul for a unique climbing experience, exploring and making first ascents on virgin rock climbing lines with possible climbs and routes at all levels of ability.

Camp

18
Travel back to Bishkek in the morning leaving everyone to have a free afternoon in the city, shopping/relaxing and a 'farewell dinner' in evening.
Hotel

19

(September 6) Expedition officially ends after an early breakfast at the hotel. Members flying home directly transfer to Bishkek Airport, or ITMC can make and arrangements should you wish to extend your holiday in Kyrgyzstan.


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SAFETY AND RESCUE

ISM will provide the main medical kit, individual members need only bring a small personal first aid kit. We will have a Sat phone at base camp to give us weather reports and to enable us to summon a rescue helicopter in the unlikely event that it is needed. Vaccinations are not obligatory for the area, however some may be recommended by your GP.

As always we pay careful attention to ACCLIMATISATION and rarely, if ever, have any serious problems. Some people may choose to use Diamox on the trip - if so please consult your GP for advice.

INSURANCE

All expedition members must have mountaineering insurance to cover medical and rescue expenses. For UK residents, suitable cover can be arranged through the following organisations/companies:

Austrian Alpine Club Tel: 01707 324835 Web: www.aacuk.demon.co.uk

Snowcard Tel: 01327 262805 Web: www.snowcard.co.uk

BMC Tel: 0161 445 4747 Web: www.thebmc.co.uk

Non-UK residents. If full insurance cover such as provided by the BMC and Snowcard is not available in your home country, non-UK residents can obtain cover by joining the Austrian Alpine Club. 

EQUIPMENT

ISM will provide all climbing hardware, ropes, cooking equipment, lightweight tents for the mountain and the main first aid kit. Individual members must bring:

  • Sleeping bag (expedition or ‘5 season’ quality)
  • Closed-cell foam sleeping mat and/or Thermarest
  • Rigid mountaineering boots (a warm B3 boot is recommended)
  • Rock climbing shoes (comfortable and large enough to take a thickish sock)
  • Thermal underwear, fleece shirt or similar, fleece jacket & pants
  • Extra fleece top or duvet, Goretex jacket and salopettes (or pants)
  • Mountain mitts/gloves, hat or balaclava, gaiters
  • Ice axe, ice hammer, crampons (with anti-ball plate)
  • Helmet, harness, 3 locking carabiners, belay plate
  • 2 long slings (120cm), 3 prussik loops, headtorch with spare batteries,
  • Climbing rucksack (55-70 litre), second sac or kitbag,
  • Trekking poles (collapsible for carrying whilst climbing) with snow baskets,
  • Glacier glasses, sun protection cream and lipsalve, water bottle,
  • Mug, bowl, spoon, shorts, sunhat, lightweight 'trekking' boots or approach shoes
  • Personal ‘travellers’ first-aid kit (headaches, diahorrea, minor cuts, blisters etc)
  • 'Wet Wipes' for personal hygiene / alcohol hand gel
  • 2-3 books, maybe a tot of something warming to drink at ABC!

In addition if you own a lightweight mountain tent (2 or 3-man) this is helpful in giving everyone some privacy at base camp and room to spread out their gear etc. Please let us know on the Booking Form.

Please see our 'NEWS & ARTICLES' page for an article on equipment by Kyrgyzstan 'veteran' Steve Taylor.

VISAS

Kyrgystan Visas: Citizens of many countries (including all of the EU and the US) no longer require a visa to visit Kyrgyzstan for less than 60 days. Full information at:Embassy of the Kyrgyz Republic, London, Tel: 0207 935 1462, email: email@kyrgyz-embassy.org.uk. Members from countries requiring a visa can get a letter of invitation from ITMC - just let us know.

COST

The all-inclusive IN COUNTRY price for the expedition is £2940.00 This covers everything apart from drinks and restaurant meals in Osh. Single rooms are available for all hotel nights by paying a supplement of £50.

BOOKING

To book a place on the expedition, please email Adrian Nelhams to check availability and to receive an expedition booking form. Please complete the booking form and email it back to Adrian at adriannelhams@alpin-ism.com A deposit of £600.00 must then be made to secure a place on the expedition. Adrian will email you the appropriate bank details, so that you can either send him a cheque or make a bank transfer to confirm your place.
N.B. The ISM booking form for Alpine courses must not be used as a different information is needed.

PAYMENT SCHEDULE

After your place has been secured by the deposit, we require a second payment of £600 by the end of March and the balance payment by June 15th. In case of cancellation, these payments are non-refundable so please ensure that you arrange your cancellation insurance immediately once the first payment has been made.

We look forward to welcoming you to this next ISM adventure!

Please phone or mail with any further questions:
Tel: + 44 (0)1539 721561 Email: adriannelhams@alpin-ism.com