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Lying to the west of the Central Tien Shan and tucked between other high ranges, the Kuilu range is one of the 'friendliest' in Kyrgyzstan and is known for good weather and favourable climbing conditions. It is also one of the quickest to access, enabling us to maximise our climbing time within this 3-week trip. After climbing in Kuilu we plan to visit another area - Son Kul - before returning to Bishkek. This region of limestone peaks and canyons has huge potential as an alpine rock/big wall climbing area; ISM teams climbed the first routes here in 2008. It is an idyllic spot to visit after time spent camping high in the snow and has rock routes up to 700m long. We will be using 6-wheel-drive and 4-wheel-drive vehicles to reach Base Camp, which will be as comfortable as we can make it, with a tent per person, cook tent and a cosy mess tent (normally a Kyrgyz 'Yurta' made of woollen felt and heated by wood-burning stove). We take our own fresh meat (which usually walks in by itself) but vegetarians are also well catered-for. People wishing to join the expedition must have alpine climbing experience (either gained at ISM or elsewhere) and be conversant with the skills demanded by alpine climbing. As there is a great variety of objectives at different levels of difficulty in this area, the climbing grade of expedition members is less important than fitness/stamina, hardiness, enthusiasm and a strong taste for adventure.
Security is an important consideration for all our trips. It is a sad fact that today many of the world's finest mountain areas are conflict zones. Despite political upheavals Kyrgyzstan remains a safe, democratic country with tourism as one of its main industries. Access is quick and convenient with direct flights from Heathrow to Almaty then a short coach transfer to our hotel in Bishkek. This makes it an ideal trip for people who want to take part in an adventurous expedition to the greater ranges within the time span of a ‘normal’ holiday. OBJECTIVES and TECHNICAL STANDARDS We climb in small teams, each with a guide, tackling peaks in lightweight, alpine-style (no fixed ropes - everyone climbs the ground for him/herself). We use porter help to set up Advanced Base Camps so that we are as fresh as possible for the climbing. Some peaks may be possible as day climbs from ABC while the bigger peaks may require two or three-day forays and camps high on the mountain. If you are keen to join the expedition but unsure whether your experience is adequate please call Pat Littlejohn (expedition leader) at the UK office (+44 (0) 1766 890441 or email patlittlejohn@alpin-ism.com
Independent climbing teams. Sometimes it is possible for experienced mountaineers to join our expeditions and operate as independent climbing teams. They share all logistics such as accommodation, transport, base camp facilities etc. but must be self-contained above Base Camp with regard to ropes, mountaineering hardware, tents and cooking equipment (we provide gas cylinders). The trip price is adjusted to exclude the guiding element. Anyone interested should contact Pat to discuss (details above). Independent Expeditions to the Tien Shan. ISM provides an advisory and support service for any self-contained group wishing to organise an expedition to attempt unclimbed peaks in the Tien Shan. We advise on suitable areas/objectives, agree the itinerary and arrange all support services needed for the trip. Please contact Pat to discuss (details above). Click here for
Itinerary and Details
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