Virgin Peaks of the Tien Shan (Celestial Mountains)

KOTUR GLACIER, WESTERN KOKSHAAL-TOO

In September we will be running our fifteenth expedition to the Tien Shan mountains of Central Asia. ISM has led the field in exploring this fantastic mountain range, which lies to the north of the Himalaya and extends for 1500kms E to W, spanning the border between China and the independent republic of Kyrgyzstan. Over the years ISM teams have made first ascents of around 50 peaks in the Tien Shan, many of which are now recorded on published maps. At the same time we have gained unrivalled knowledge and experience of this magnificent mountain wilderness. For mountaineers who love the thrill of exploring and the challenge of making first ascents, these 'Celestial Mountains' compare favourably to any in the world.

The Tien Shan are at a similar latitude to the Pyrenees, so the peaks feel much higher than those of a comparable altitude in the Himalaya or Andes (where the level of glaciation is up to 1000m higher). Their greater remoteness and untapped mountaineering potential gives many parts of the Tien Shan a unique attraction. The areas we visit have a variety of objectives, including many less technical peaks which can be climbed by people with normal alpine skills and a good level of fitness.

In 2008 we will be returning to the Western Kokshaal-Too range, which is truly one of the jewels of the Tien Shan. Extending for 60 kilometers along Kyrgyzstan's southern border, it features roughly 25 major glacier systems on its north side alone, each surrounded by superb peaks. ISM has now climbed from 5 of the glaciers and of these, the Kotur Glacier stands out as a 'mountaineers' paradise'.

As you ascend the glacier, 'alpine peaks' rise on either side, culminating in the magnificent spire of Volshebnitsa (5285m). Some of these peaks are unclimbed, others have been climbed by only one route. At the head of the glacier are the giant peaks forming the frontier with China (again either unclimbed or with just one route so far) dominated by the huge fortress of Pk Byeliy or 'Grand Poohbah', at 5697m the highest unclimbed summit in the West Kokshaal-Too range.

Base camp is at 3900m directly below the snout of the glacier, making access quick and simple.Our plan will be to establish an Advanced Base Camp towards the top of the glacier and to climb some routes and peaks from here, then once we have fully acclimatised to set up an 'ABC2' deeper into the range from which to attempt the higher peaks along the frontier. Because there is a variety of objectives at different standards in the area, the trip is suitable as a first expedition for those with experience in the Alps (normally a minimum of two alpine trips).

We will be using 6-wheel-drive and 4-wheel-drive vehicles to reach Base Camp, which will be as comfortable as we can make it, with a tent per person, cook tent and a cosy mess tent (normally a Kyrgyz 'Yurta' made of woollen felt and heated by wood-burning stove). We take our own fresh meat (which usually walks in by itself) but vegetarians are also well catered-for.

After our time spent mountaineering it is a day's drive back to the main regional town of Naryn, where a comfortable hotel, good food and a sauna await. We normally arrange a Kyrgyz cultural evening of traditional music and dance in Naryn, and also visit a Kyrgyz handicraft centre to break the journey back to Bishkek.

People wishing to join the expedition must have sufficient mountaineering experience (either gained at ISM or elsewhere) and be conversant with the skills demanded by alpine climbing. As there is a great variety of objectives at different levels of difficulty in this area, the climbing grade of expedition members is less important than fitness/stamina, hardiness, enthusiasm and a strong taste for adventure.

Security is an important consideration for all our trips. It is a sad fact that today many of the world's finest mountain areas are conflict zones. Despite political upheavals Kyrgyzstan remains a safe, democratic country with tourism as one of its main industries. Access is quick and convenient with direct flights from Heathrow to Almaty then a short coach transfer to our hotel in Bishkek. This makes it an ideal trip for people who want to take part in an adventurous expedition to the greater ranges within the time span of a ‘normal’ holiday.

OBJECTIVES and TECHNICAL STANDARDS

We climb in small teams, each with a guide, tackling peaks in lightweight, alpine-style (no fixed ropes - everyone climbs the ground for him/herself). We use porter help to set up Advanced Base Camps so that we are as fresh as possible for the climbing. Some peaks may be possible as day climbs from ABC while the bigger peaks may require two or three-day forays and camps high on the mountain. If you are keen to join the expedition but unsure whether your experience is adequate please call Pat Littlejohn (expedition leader) at the UK office (+44 (0) 1766 890441 or email patlittlejohn@alpin-ism.com

Independent climbing teams. Sometimes it is possible for experienced mountaineers to join our expeditions and operate as independent climbing teams. They share all logistics such as accommodation, transport, base camp facilities etc. but must be self-contained above Base Camp with regard to ropes, mountaineering hardware, tents and cooking equipment (we provide gas cylinders). The trip price is adjusted to exclude the guiding element. Anyone interested should contact Pat to discuss (details above).

Independent Expeditions to the Tien Shan. ISM provides an advisory and support service for any self-contained group wishing to organise an expedition to attempt unclimbed peaks in the Tien Shan. We advise on suitable areas/objectives, agree the itinerary and arrange all support services needed for the trip. Please contact Pat to discuss (details above).

Click here for Itinerary and Details
Click here for Expedition Booking Form (print and post)
Mountain Info Report
Article, High Magazine
Borkoldoy Report in CLIMB Magazine Feb 2006
2006 Expedition Report - 2006 Gallery
2005 Expedition Report - 2005 Gallery
2004 Expedition Report - 2004 Gallery
2003 Expedition Report - Gallery
2002 Expedition Report