Virgin Peaks of the Tien Shan (Celestial Mountains)
2012 EXPEDITION - WEST KOKSHAL-TOO range & SON KUL canyon
The Kokshal-Too is one of the largest of the ranges which comprise the Tien Shan, extending some 400kms from Central Tien Shan to the Torugart Pass in the south (and forming Kyrgyzstan's border with China). Parts of the Kokshal-Too are now relatively well-explored by mountaineers (ISM alone has run 7 expeditions there) however there are still entire 'sub-ranges' which remain untouched.
Our objective for 2012 is to explore one of these ranges -a striking group of peaks we have viewed at a distance on several other trips. As ever we will be rounding off our expedition with a few days at Son Kul Canyon, a climbers' paradise which reveals more and more potential with each visit.
Background. Only since the collapse of the Soviet Union have western mountaineers
been permitted to visit the vast Tien Shan mountain range in Central
Asia (which extends for 1500kms E to W, spanning the border
between China and the Kyrgyz Republic). ISM has led the field
in this exploration, making first ascents of around 60
important peaks (many of which are now recorded on
published maps) as well as many lesser peaks. At the same time we
have gained
unrivalled knowledge and experience of this magnificent mountain
wilderness. For mountaineers who love the thrill of exploring
and the challenge of making first ascents, these 'Celestial
Mountains' compare favourably to any in the world.
The Tien Shan are at a similar latitude to the Pyrenees, so
the peaks feel much higher than those of a comparable altitude
in the Himalaya or Andes (where the level of glaciation is
up to 1000m higher). Their greater remoteness and untapped
mountaineering potential gives many parts of the Tien Shan
a unique attraction. The areas we visit have a variety
of objectives, including many less technical peaks which can
be
climbed by
people with normal alpine skills and a good level of fitness.
THE PLAN FOR 2012
From the capital Bishkek we drive SE in 4wd and 6wd vehicles to the provincial town
of Naryn, then after our last night in the comfort of a hotel we head south through an area of high 'steppes' towards the West Kokshal-Too. We plan to stop and have a 'warm-up' climb en route, enabling us to refresh skills, sort out compatible
climbing teams and have a 'mid-altitude' camp at about 3300m to help with acclimatisation.
The final approach to our mountain range is through uncharted territory. As far as we can ascertain there are no vehicle tracks so our off-road vehicles will be used to the full. Our objective will be to set up as Base Camp as high up as possible in one of the main valleys of the range. After a reconnaisance and perhaps an acclimatisation peak we will decide on a site for Advanced Base Camp, from which we can attempt our main objectives.
From the fairly distant views we have so far had of the peaks (and as can be seen from the photographs), it is clear that there is a great variety of superb objectives. Attractive snowy and mixed peaks sit alongside towering rocky giants rising to 5000m. As we have always found, once you are in the midst of the peaks, far more objectives come to light than can be seen looking at the range from a distance. We are sometimes able to climb from the same ABC for the whole trip, but more often we move ABC at some point or set up multiple ABC's. We have porters to assist us in this and to keep our high camps supplied, giving us maximum time and energy for the climbing.
We will have ample time to explore and climb in the Western Kokshal-Too before heading back to Naryn for a comfortable hotel night and a soak in a bath or shower! In 2010 we discovered some excellent 'alpine rock' climbing on the outskirts of Naryn and depending on the wishes of the group we can climb here for a day before heading to Kyrgyzstan's amazing 'canyonlands' - the Son Kul region.
SON KUL CANYON
NW of Naryn is one of Kyrgyzstan's famous lakes
- Son Kul. The region surrounding it is a magnificent 'canyonlands'
of massive limestone gorges with the biggest, Son Kul Canyon,
being over 900m deep. The whole region has huge potential as
an alpine rock/big wall climbing area. ISM teams climbed
the first routes here in 2008 and have added a dozen more superb routes since. Being lower and warmer, it is an idyllic spot to
visit after time spent camping high in
the
snow.
The
rock
routes done so far at Son Kul have been up to 700m long and
in the grade range of V- (Mild Very Severe) to VI+ (British
E2). Huge scope exists for both harder and easier routes.
Many of the climbs are full day undertakings but there
are excellent shorter options for a more relaxed day
or a half-day.
The hiking in this area is also
outstanding, the canyon next
to Son
Kul
offering
one of the best gorge walks in the world (passing beneath
immense walls and narrowing to 3m at times). This gives
another option for anyone not wishing to climb every day. Nightly
camp fires under starry skies are another of the attractions
of
Son Kul!
After climbing here we head back to Bishkek,
usually stopping at a Kyrgyz handicraft centre en route to see
the art of felt making, and look at a range of modern products
as well as a museum of antique items from the history of the
Kyrgyz people. From here it is just a few hour's drive back
to Bishkek.
LOGISTICS. We will be using
6-wheel-drive and 4-wheel-drive vehicles to reach Base Camp,
which will
be as comfortable
as possible with a tent per person, cook tent and
a comfortable mess tent. We take our own fresh
meat (which usually walks in by itself) but vegetarians
are also well catered-for. The standard of Base Camp cooking
is usually excellent. There is no need to bring any supplementary
food but some people like to have a supply of muesli / energy
bars in reserve or the odd treat of chocolate etc.
SECURITY is an important
consideration for all our trips. It is a sad fact that today
many of the
world's finest mountain
areas are conflict zones. In 2010 the Osh region of southern Kyrgyzstan suffered serious political violence however this had no effect on our trips, which take place hundreds of miles away over several mountain ranges. Basically Kyrgyzstan remains a safe, democratic country with tourism
as one of
its main
industries.
ACCESS is quick and convenient with direct
flights from Heathrow to Almaty then a coach transfer
to our hotel in Bishkek. This makes it an ideal trip for people
who want to take part in an adventurous expedition to the greater
ranges
within
the
time
span of a ‘normal’ holiday.
OBJECTIVES
and TECHNICAL STANDARDS. We climb in small teams,
each with a guide, tackling peaks in lightweight, alpine-style
(no fixed ropes - everyone climbs
the ground for him/herself). We use porter help to set up
Advanced Base Camps so that we are as fresh as possible for
the climbing. Some
peaks may be possible as day climbs from ABC
while the bigger peaks may require two or three-day forays
and camps high on the mountain.
People wishing to join the expedition must
have alpine climbing experience (either gained at ISM or elsewhere)
and be conversant with the skills demanded by alpine climbing.
As there is a great variety of objectives at different levels
of difficulty in this area, the climbing grade of expedition
members is less important than fitness/stamina, hardiness,
enthusiasm and a strong taste for adventure. If you are keen
to join the expedition but unsure whether your experience is
adequate please call Pat Littlejohn (expedition
leader) at the UK office (+44 (0) 1766 890441 or email patlittlejohn@alpin-ism.com
Independent climbing teams. Sometimes it
is possible for experienced mountaineers to join our expeditions
and
operate as independent
climbing teams. They share all logistics such as accommodation,
transport, base camp facilities etc. but must be self-contained
above Base Camp with regard to ropes, mountaineering hardware,
tents and cooking equipment
(we provide gas cylinders). The trip price is adjusted to exclude
the guiding element. Anyone interested should contact Pat to
discuss (details above).
Click here for
Expedition Itinerary and Details
Click
here for Expedition
Booking Form (print and post)
2010 Expedition Report - 2010 Gallery
2009 Expedition Report
2007 & 2008 Expeditions
- see News & Reports
Mountain Info Report
Article, High Magazine
Borkoldoy
Report in CLIMB Magazine Feb 2006
2006 Expedition Report - 2006 Gallery
2005 Expedition Report - 2005 Gallery
2004 Expedition Report - 2004
Gallery
2003 Expedition Report - Gallery
2002 Expedition Report
