Technical Ascents - Central Switzerland

This mountain area of outstanding beauty lies immediately east of the Bernese Oberland. The peaks are composed of hard weathered granite giving climbing of the highest quality, comparable to Bregaglia and the Chamonix Aiguilles.The weather in this region tends to be better than in the Oberland, and an abundance of excellent routes at lower altitudes means that there are plenty of options during poor weather or when there is heavy snow high up, so that a great deal can be achieved throughout the week.

As well as being a mecca for technical rock routes in an alpine setting (classics include the South Ridge of the Salbitschijen and the Graue Wand), peaks like the Galenstock (3583m) and the Dammastock (3630m) throw down challenging ridges which give tremendous mountaineering outings. We will enjoy both styles of climbing on this course and sample at least two different parts of the region.

Who the course will suit

This course will suit people who rock climb fairly regularly (either indoor or outdoor), who can follow at least grade 5 (Very Severe, American 5.7) in rock shoes and who are confident of their climbing fitness. It essential that you bring comfortable rock shoes suitable for long multi-pitch routes, also lightweight approach shoes in addition to mountain boots. UK-based climbers needing to push up their grade/experience are recommended to climb with us in the UK first (see UK Courses page).

Previous alpine climbing experience is necessary and participants should have experience of rock climbing in mountain boots with a rucksack (although we carry rock shoes for many climbs). We climb on a low 2:1 guiding ratio, which gives us flexibility to match levels of experience, climbing grade and fitness within the group - and to climb some challenging routes.

Peaks and routes that can be climbed on this course

• Galenstock (3583m). South-to-North traverse, grade III (AD), a great mountaineering day.
• Gletschhorn (3305m), South Ridge (III). This classic mountain rock route route gives a good shorter day from the Albert Heim hut.
• Gross Bielenhorn (3206m), SE Ridge (grade IV+). An excellent varied alpine rock route.
• Klein Bielenhorn (2940m), South Face. Very accessible and offering a choice of routes at grade V+ and VI (British HVS & E1, American 5.8 & 5.9) climbed in rock shoes.
• Klein Bielenhorn (2940m) West Ridge (IV). The classic route of the peak, an excellent rock ridge of wonderful granite.
• Dammastock (3630m), East Rib (grade III, AD). The east side of the highest peak in Central Switzerland offers impressive rock and ice climbing of a serious mountaineering nature. The best route takes the E Rib which leads to the N Summit.
• Graue Wand (3172m), classic South Face route (grade VI). Fantastic sustained climbing up a magnificent wall which is one of the showpieces of Central Switzerland.
• Salbitschijen (2981m),South Ridge (V/V+). One of the best routes of its grade in the Alps: perfect granite, highly photogenic and having some unforgettable pitches.
• Winterstock (3203m). Triple-summited peak close to the Albert Heim hut. Routes of all lengths and grades including the very challenging, 1100m-long South Ridge.

Typical course program (In this example we stay in the Furka area, however it is equally feasible to transfer to the Salbit hut on the Tuesday and climb the South Ridge of Salbitschijen on the Wednesday or Thursday plus other routes in this area.)

Saturday evening.

The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 7.00pm at Le Grand Chalet hotel in Leysin. This is the chance for the guides to give you a thorough briefing, to discuss the detailed plan for the week with you and to check any equipment needs.

Sunday.

We drive along the Rhone valley to the Rhone Glacier and the Furka pass. The Sidelen hut is a perfect place to start the week and is reached in 1.5 hrs walking. We climb a 'warm-up' route near the hut in the afternoon and check/refresh the alpine skills and ropework required for the course.

Monday.

The South-East ridge of the Gross Bielenhorn (3206m) is an excellent first objective, being long and varied with several pitches of IV+. There are short-roping sections and the descent is quite complex with several short abseils, making this a great route for practising the full range of alpine rock skills. Overnight at Sidelen hut.

Tuesday.

For a more technical challenge today we can choose one of several routes on the south face of the Klein Bielenhorn. This is reached in 25 mins from the Sidelen hut. Routes on the face itself are all V+ or VI and around 8 pitches. A less technical option is to traverse the peak via the West Ridge (IV) which gives an excellent mountaineering day. We descend in the afternoon and walk up to the Albert Heim hut (1.5 hours)

Wednesday.

There is a choice of superb objectives for today. Strong rock climbers will probably want to attempt the Graue Wand (VI), the most famous route in the area taking a series of fissures up an absolutely stunning 400m granite face. If you prefer a first-class mountaineering day, then the traverse of the Galenstock from south to north (grade III rock, overall grade AD) fits the bill exactly. Either objective requires good weather, so if the forecast is better for the Thursday then plans for these two days may be juxtaposed.

Thursday.

The South Ridge of the Gletschhorn (3305m), grade III+, is very enjoyable indeed and gives course participants an opportunity to do some lead-climbing ( with instruction from the guide and at the guide's discretion) or simply to enjoy a less pressured day. It can be climbed entirely in mountain boots or carrying rock boots for the hardest pitches.

Friday.

The Winterstock (3203m) is the closest major peak to the Albert Heim hut, rising in a series of huge towers. We will attempt a route on the First Tower, either taking the first section of the massive South Ridge (V/VI) or one of the more recent routes on the SW face. Return later in the day to Leysin and the Grand Chalet hotel, evening meal then a welcome drink in the Lynx bar!

Saturday morning.

Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure.

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